James Grissom Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Hello everyone : new to mbgfourm l bought my first flats boat , she's a 1986 M A 17' Well maintained an history of maintance records. She powered by the Yamaha 130 saltwater series mounted on a 6" B/H Jack plate. This fourm has shared a wealth of information . I hope I'm also able to contribute as my experience grow. She set up with 3 batteries , One flooded wet cell Interstate 1000cca for starting .And Two Optima blue top for trolling or lights at night . All 3 batteries are 6 years old . My question is should I stay with the wet cell battery will my older 2 stroke, or will my motor charging system be compatible with the AGM battery ? Also l want to puck up a spare prop. I understand there's a lot of variables to consider. Any susgestions on props I.e pitch , a 2nd 3 blade or 4 blade . Will usually be running 3/4 full fuel 2 people & light gear . Used in keys and flamigo possible back country ? not planing to run across shallow flats an damage grass or lower unit even though she equipted with shallow water pick up. For give me long post. Bad experiences with salesman . Over the 50 plus years learned to trust most fisherman to be honest ..except when telling you where the great fishing spots or size of catch . lol.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernWake Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 What are you looking for a spare prop for? If for different conditions I would get a good 4 blade for when you are loaded and then a higher pitch 3 blade for speed when it is just you/light boat. if for a cheap spare to get you in I'd do just an inexpensive aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPFit Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 I'd second aluminum spare prop for weight and cost. I've come to understand the 2 stroke motors (I have one) aren't very compatible with AGM as they overcharge when running. My battery indicator on my gauges when running shows upwards of 14.6 volts. I have 3 wet cells on my boat for same setup as you (minus the night lights). Honestly I know there is better technology these days-- but if it ain't broke don't fix it. I plan to replace my batteries with wet cell in the same type that I have on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodWorks Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 I've been running 3 AGM Deka group 31 batteries for years. Never had any issues cranking or charging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Thanks guys previous owner susgested getting a 4 blade an keeping the 3 blade as spare. I'm sure there will be numberious trips that I will be loaded down with grandkids or my wife's ex who a 3x kinda guy . Due to lack of experiences I won't be trying to jump her up on plane in skinny areas , so hole shot no an issue . I grew up with air boats ifihsing an hunting inEverglades , water depth was never a issue . So alum 3 blade good advice ! Will replace start battery with same and thinking about maintiance free 27 or next larger for up front for 24 volt . I upgraded terminal / fuse block , all connections were clean an had Di-electric grease.. Notice there's no type of vent in console to aid in ventilation or during battery charging . Should that be a address . Or is it a no issue? Advice greatly appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geeviam Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Welcome to the MBG forum James! Congrats on the new boat too! IMO, the reason for going with a 4-blade is as much about load-carrying as it is about hole-shot. If you are going to be running with a light load, and speed and fuel economy are important - go with a 3-blade prop. If you are going to be running with a moderate to heavy load most of the time - go with a 4-blade prop. The faster hole-shot and load carrying benefit of the 4-blade translates to less strain on your motor, which could add time to its life span. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Thank you for all ur replies l've allways been told to try to cover all ur bases. My current 3 blade like new and a little extra could pick up a good 4 blade . Then I Could enjoy the best of both benefits . Money can alway be a issue but 45 years working in aviation tought me , that some things you just don't skimp on and load and its distribiton is a biggie , i.e. "Wt X Arm= Moment " effect ( everything ) . Hope you all get out to enjoy this great weather , mine headed to Eric's for 100 hr service and then I' m installing my Sea dek pads . I drew up for the gunnel rod holders area. . Tk's again everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPFit Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Is there a seat on the console that flips up? Or does the 'door' open on the console for access to the electronic wires? I usually just prop open the seat with a stick and or open the console door while charging Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Yes there is I just ordered two spring supports three about 10 " long . Lid had only 1 but it was broke in the middle of the spring .also ordered a push to latch pull to open to install on forward anchor hatch. So that the lid dosen't bounce in a chop or waves . Does anyone know someone that can make a custom forward casting platform for the 17 MA , so legs will straddle all the hatch lids ,located here S Miami area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polliwog Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 I would go on the Birdsall web site and check out what they do. I'm sure they can make what you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 I have a neighbor that has one with a support that's mounted on the front . I'ts a nice little platform And didn't cost much. My 96 M.A, deck has foward anchor locker and a large hatch approx 5" behind the back edge.would like to have a custom one made so the legs don't sit on the lids if possible . Only concern is my 245 lbs being supported by 4 leg , 1 1/2 dia . Each I can almost hear my gel-coat Screaming " Spider Cracks " May be a yeti or engel may be better at spreading the load Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conocean Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Welcome James. I never had problems with my Group 27 Deka AGM house battery on the 135hp Merc 2 smoker that powered my old 1995 17MA. My TM batteries were 1200 Odysseys. I suggest you replace 6 year old batteries, for sure. In regards to the spare prop, my suggestion would be to purchase an inexpensive aluminum or used stainless 3 blade. I always ran a 3 blade 21p Merc Trophy prop and found that to give me the best overall performance. I would contact THE OUTLAW on this forum and speak to him about making you a custom platform for your particular application. I understand your concern above and I'm sure Ralph can build you a solution. He's in south Broward. Birdsall Marine is in Palm Beach and that's another option to explore. They built the backrest on my 18HPX as well as the casting platform on my old 17MA. Their quality is decent. However, using a 45 quart Yeti or RTIC instead of a platform would be my choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 I've run AGM's with 2 strokes on 3 different boats and never had an issue, now that doesn't make it right. I've read Yamaha doesn't recommend AGM's with 2 strokes. I've also read Yamaha never invested in testing of AGM's with 2 strokes, its cheaper just to say we don't recommend it, since 2 strokes are becoming dinosaurs. As far as props go. I would put some time on the boat and decide what you like and don't like about then factor that into the purchase of the next prop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Tks conocean I'llcheck out the Outlaw ,an see what he offers . Thought having 2" pads welded to the bottom of legs with Sea-dek attached ,that would spread load over larger area . Grandson friend who itching to go fishing brought over his Orca it fit perfect between the yeti cooler tie downs on forward deck . Told him I just improved his cooler by 150.00 . Watched a couple 5 day ice test . Funny his Orca did much better than same size Yeti did in both reviews some to think about , I"m 240 an the Orca really solid .As for the prop using the boat in the area I'm mostly fishing and under it's adv, loading condition will present me with better experances and more questions to bonunce off you guys !!!! Hey best way for a newbe to learn , is ask and then do ,do ,do . Hurricane I also probably read those same article also . Don' t believe the AMG's were every produced then, I think I'give them A try, Tk's again everyone , Hope to be hooking up soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Regarding the wet vs agm for older Yamaha's The yamaha guyz recommend that wet cell for any of the older model boats due to the reserve capacity required and the type of alternator systems...you can use a AGM; however, as the yamaha tech's told me at Boat Center in FLL, if you do have an electrical issue with the older motors, it's harder to figure out if an AGM is involved. Check with DEKA...they have a complete recommendation bulletin from Yamaha. Will it work- yes, but, is it the recommended - no. I would go with a DEKA wet cell, series 27 or 31 for the house and starting battery (what I ahve on my MA17 95 115) and DEKA's 27 for your trolling motor batteries - again, I"m running the same for my 24 system. DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Tks Capt, picked up my Deka starting bat, yesterday . Dropping off my 17 on Wednesday at Eric's Outboard marine service she sat approx, 14 month " Ouch " . I drain the tank and filtered the old Rec 90 through a spare Yamaha filter via a auto zone remote 12 volt fuel pump. Allowing the return to be dumped back into the tank with K100 added to the tank. About 1 &1/2 oz per gal, of fuel . After 1hr, I dumped the old fuel into 5 gal cans. Will refuel this morning with fresh fuel an add more K100 as suggested . installing new thurmstats poppet valves ,impeller kit and engine oil pump and see if they can just flush carb's, if not I have new factory carb rebuild kits . Will ask about installing head water psi sys (elect). Not sure about remote oil tank ? Boat has always been covered . Does the 2 cycle break down or thicken up after sitting ? Only a gal, in tank , thought about draining an cleaning inside then re filling with new. I installed new water pickups ball valves an pumps for live wells , notice there wasn't any raw water screens on either pump , though about them buy didn't want to many "irons in the fire at once " . Do I really need them rarely fished live bait other than crustations ! fish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 36 minutes ago, James Grissom said: Tks Capt, picked up my Deka starting bat, yesterday . Dropping off my 17 on Wednesday at Eric's Outboard marine service she sat approx, 14 month " Ouch " . I drain the tank and filtered the old Rec 90 through a spare Yamaha filter via a auto zone remote 12 volt fuel pump. Allowing the return to be dumped back into the tank with K100 added to the tank. About 1 &1/2 oz per gal, of fuel . After 1hr, I dumped the old fuel into 5 gal cans. Will refuel this morning with fresh fuel an add more K100 as suggested . installing new thurmstats poppet valves ,impeller kit and engine oil pump and see if they can just flush carb's, if not I have new factory carb rebuild kits . Will ask about installing head water psi sys (elect). Not sure about remote oil tank ? Boat has always been covered . Does the 2 cycle break down or thicken up after sitting ? Only a gal, in tank , thought about draining an cleaning inside then re filling with new. I installed new water pickups ball valves an pumps for live wells , notice there wasn't any raw water screens on either pump , though about them buy didn't want to many "irons in the fire at once " . Do I really need them rarely fished live bait other than crustations ! fish Drain all the old oil on both the engine and tank. As well, you might want to take the tank out and replace the filter that is on the tank... Check the on-engine tank and drain as well - replace with new oil. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Was refueling this afternoon in homestead , met an elderly gentleman with a well kept hewes 16 footer that's a really sweet boat,was looking for one when I found my 17 MA..Told my wife I was going to increase the depth of my garage by reducing the spare bedroom's width, so I could park the 17 inside .She quickly pointed out just who wears the paints. In my little world . Any how this gentleman had a 90 hp 2 cycle, he asked me if , I did away with the remote oil tank .that I should go back to pre mixing oil and fuel , It's cheaper and a lot fewer potential problems down the road. What do you all think about this on the 130 - 2 stroke. ? Have any of you converted back? I'm asking becouse I 'm planing on installing new components i.e. Fuel, oil pump etc, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Yamaha has been making oil injection for a long time with great reliability. If I had a older Mercury or Evinrude, I would not think twice about removing the VRO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 13 hours ago, Bamaskeet said: Yamaha has been making oil injection for a long time with great reliability. If I had a older Mercury or Evinrude, I would not think twice about removing the VRO. Ditto... the oil pump on the tank and engine should be all that is required to be changed....I'd think twice about turning off the VRO. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Thanks guys drained both remote and engine tanks today as well lower unit , will pickup Yamaha oils tomorrow . I installed engine an main new Yamaha water separator filter as well as one with a 10 micron 1/2 size cartage with a transperant outer body with a drain port an orange float ring , will use this one so I can see any residual crud or water that was missed . Was unable to draw fuel through line past filter to hand pump bulb . Hook up elect pump started then realized I forget to full water separator with fuel. mistake " # 1 . Stupid mistake . # 2 no Rec-90 to pour into filter or line, will pickup 2 gal tomorrow as well . Also has any of you had ur carb's flushed or clean while they still on the motor ? Will this also clean jets and air passages ? An did it seem to improve, when the boat was being used 2 to 3 time a mth, every thing worked perfect,. Just want to cover all the bases and thinking money spent on labor to rebuild and carb kit might be spent on. something else . Truly appreciate all your advice and the time u take to share it . I'm ordering Yamaha shop and service manuals from Dealer, these should help tremendously . Oh! Friends have been asking me to name her was thing to name her something my dad always said . Is there a register with names listed . I don't want to use someone else's Tk's once again . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 Before you do a carb job....how does it run? You might not need it... A carb job will cost about $400 or so by a Yamaha dealer.........if it's running fine, no reason to do a carb job...if not, then have it done and then be sure to run it every weekend....at least on the muffs to keep fuel moving through the carbs. DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 Total time almost 14 Mths. 2 mths after Buying her , unforseen circumstance wasn't going to allow me to use her for awhile. So I drained and fogged in side of tank with Marvel Mystery oil . Then I sprayed the. engine down with Corrosion X, and sprayed inside cyls . with engine oil. Every couple mth I bump the starter with plugs removed only to move Pistons , Not to spin or crank. So last Mth , I was able to start prepping to put back on the water and enjoy fishing with old friends an family, especially the grandkids . During this dry spell I installed a Garmin gps , ship to shore radio .And had Sea dek create some pads from my drawings for rod storage under the gunnels, I dropping her off at a local Yamaha Dealer to check her over for me. And perform the annual ck, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Grissom Posted July 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Just wanted to thank all of you that shared your advice . I picked up my boat after Eric Marine Service performed the Annual service .After14 mth, of sitting excluding the fuel tank I cleaned , only the 2 thurmostat were stuck open and the oil transfere pump in the remote tank wasn't working . She now purrrr like a kitten . very impressed with all the staff and there willingness to take the time to insure your get what you need or wanted, ( absolutely no pressure) . Once the prop gets a new hub she's on the water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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