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SOULMAN

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Help!  My 2003 18' Hewes Bonefisher (as I understand also 2004-2009 Maverick HPX) center Console has vibrated loose.  It can be lifted up about an inch and is obviously not safe.  I have a big trip planned in 6 days and need a fix.  I know glassing it in would be best but I do not have the time right now.  Thanks Soulman

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Soulman I'm not familiar with your boat ,but is there not any fasteners inside around the permeter ? When you lift up on the console can you see any screws/ bolts going into the deck. ? If so , can you reach through the access open to see  with a mirror or feel with your    hand ?  Surely someone has remover one on this site. Don't let it spoil your trip  If proper repair can't be  completed in time And  there isn't any damage to  any electric wiring . I would raise console up  and place a couple spacers so I could the clean surfaces with acetone . Then apply very sparingly a few spots of sealant at corners and center points . Then lower down and allow to cure , then enjoy your trip . When u return use a leader wire or braided line to slice through the localized spots to remove and repair properly. Take advanage to do a detailed inspection of below deck .( elect, fuel ,any signs of mold even delamination of glass structure .)  I use bore scopes all the time inspecting for F.O.D. damage on jet engines .  You can even buy a inexpensive one at  harbor freight about 50.00 bucks . Don't worry there's a lot of great guys here ,someone will come through to give you much better advice . Good Luck and enjoy  your trip 

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Thanks James.  I am going to use your suggestion and use the spacers to raise the console.  Here are some pictures of the work in process the 1st & 2nd picture showed the outside of the console completely unbolted from the deck with spacers.  The 3rd picture showed the interior of the CC with the 'L' bracket used for connecting the CC to the deck.  My biggest problem is the existing holes are all 'blown'  There my be a stringer(s) underneath the deck to make a hard connection. I am considering using toggle bolts to get some 'meat' under the deck.   I am also considering removing the 'L' brackets and glassing inside the CC.  

I am open to any suggestions.  Thank you Soulman

 

 

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You could certainly glass it in ,from my experance the gel.coat on the deck would need to be sanded down to the glass  prior to putting down glass to insure proper bonding then you should re gel coat the raw glass or at least prime and paint it with a quality epoxy paint.          . ( Now  by doing doing this  I believe your creating a bigger problem. The next time you need to get in there , the bloody thing is now glassed in .The few center console floors I've helped my buddies with , had stringers under the outer edge to support the  weight of the console, If you choose to use toggle bolts and their not stainless their going to rust very quickly  especially if there is any moisture in that foam core stringer , not to forget salt that was carried there , by  the capuluary action of the water .Did you try to speak to anyone from Hewes in their design Dept try to get Drawing with locations of pluming ,elect  runs fuel lines  fuel tank placement and its Dim's , before you go on your trip , drilling into un knowed  flooring is very risky!!!!! I would  temporary bond a few locations  NOT WHERE THE HOLES ARE, and a small bead around the out side permeter )  and (  do not use the 5200  either ) go on that trip and catch as much as you can . Take some pic's and post them . Then come back and pull that sucker off .  Check for soft  or spongy spots  in that area.If no reply from Hewes  use a scribe or pick  to dig out some material from inside all the wobbled out holes. Remember what you take out , you will have to replace .  Check its concisity. Can you squeeze out water, does it smell sour  or is it damp  Try Squeeze  between toilet paper will show moisture. Or is it dry. If Dry  I would mix up a fiberglass surrie with very fine chopped glass and a little  filler to make a wet soup mix  may be 12 oz ,  then work with 2 oz at a time , do a practice mix adding just enough hardener to set it off  but give you time to work a few holes at a time Remember OATs matters ( outside air  temp) Don't  Rush this trial run, do several until your happy with wix and working time. Then get a couple of large injection syreng to force the mix down into the holes and into the stringers core . Fill from deep inside to let the air escape  ,  you might use a piece of stiff wire to work the mix into the stringers hole , don't gough gently work it in .May take a couple times each hole,. Keep checking holes level as you work from hole to hole.Add wet mix to wet mix . When finished let it set up a few days, when fully cured  place console back in same location ( Use masking tape around permeter before removing console  ) mark and drill correct holes for the stainless screws your installing back into the new glass holes . Clean all old sealant from floor , bottom and sides of console.  Put console in place and line up drilled holes with drills in all the  holes . Now duck tape forward edge of console to deck. Get help " Not drunk help "   Verify all holes are still lined up.. Remove all drill bits . And with help holding front edge , raise back and gently roll forward enough to apply a slow setting adhesive base  Two rows with holes in middle and a bead around each hole  Try to work quick but don't rush and make a mess.slowly roll the console back into place and install screws in crisicross pattern Tighten evenly so there's no uneven gap and No sealant visible  around outside permeter, I hope this helps .

 

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Thanks,

I spent a 6 hours today remachining the old 'L' bracket,  cleaned the entier interior surface of the CC and replacing all the parts.   I used 8 ss 1/4 toggle bolts at the 4 corners , and 4 per side additional machine screwed off set from he original pattern.  Applied 5200 to the bottom of the 'L' bracket and tightened appropriatly.  Hope thai is the last time I have to deal with this...... Here are some pics.

Soulman

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