Derrick929 Posted September 21, 2017 Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 Guys, I need some help to get a better understanding of what I may be getting into. I have a crack on the top of my aluminum gas tank. I've been debating whether I try to patch it or replace the entire tank. I would really prefer to remove the top and replace the whole tank vs cutting out a portion of the floor. I helped my father years ago on a Cobia and it was pretty easy. About all their was the rub strip and screws behind it and it split right apart. I could also do a full rewire and replacement of all thru hull fittings at the same time. Would be nice to use the opportunity to give her a nice updating. Im looking for suggestions-good idea or bad idea? Fairly easy or major overhaul? Thanks for everyone's suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted September 21, 2017 Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 6 hours ago, Derrick929 said: Guys, I need some help to get a better understanding of what I may be getting into. I have a crack on the top of my aluminum gas tank. I've been debating whether I try to patch it or replace the entire tank. I would really prefer to remove the top and replace the whole tank vs cutting out a portion of the floor. I helped my father years ago on a Cobia and it was pretty easy. About all their was the rub strip and screws behind it and it split right apart. I could also do a full rewire and replacement of all thru hull fittings at the same time. Would be nice to use the opportunity to give her a nice updating. Im looking for suggestions-good idea or bad idea? Fairly easy or major overhaul? Thanks for everyone's suggestions Depending on where you are at....call Bob @ Inshore Marine in Pompano Beach. On the MA (at least mine 17 1995) the tank is forward of the console seat and will require cutting out the entire front part of the deck under the front deck and taking it out. Not a simple weekend job for someone who has not done this before.... To redo all the wiring is not that difficult..just time consuming (for a DIY'r, I'd say you are looking at 40 hours of work) - plus about $1K in wiring, fuse panels, etc. Thru hulls etc...yes, can be done - probably 8-10 hours of work to be done correctly....and another $200 in parts I'd say if you have the time, do the thru-hull and wiring and want to really learn about your boat....but, the fuel tank is probably something you should leave to a professional who will then need to re-glass etc. DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLDXT Posted September 21, 2017 Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 I have a 99 17MA, no issues, but I have been wanting to do a full cap off restoration, waiting on my shop to get built. Not because it needs it, but because im just that way about my stuff.I cant stomach cutting the floor out, but that's the only way to do it without taking the cap off. Your tank runs from right behind the big storage compartment in the bow to just behind or at the back of the console. Cap off would make it easy and allow acess to everything in there, the logistics of that would obviously be more complicated, as everything would have to come off, including the motor. If you are going to do a cap off, I'd make sure you anticipate taking care of all issues you may find, including fiberglass work, budget accordingly. Cap off resto done right will keep her in tip top shape for a loooooonnnnnnng time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick929 Posted September 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 8 hours ago, Wanaflatsfish said: Depending on where you are at....call Bob @ Inshore Marine in Pompano Beach. On the MA (at least mine 17 1995) the tank is forward of the console seat and will require cutting out the entire front part of the deck under the front deck and taking it out. Not a simple weekend job for someone who has not done this before.... Unfortunately I'm in GA. I'm sure there are very qualified people who could do it here but I'm not familiar enough with anyone that I could probably afford. Theres something I just hate about cutting the deck out, just seems much easier to do the cap off. I'm looking to upgrade the motor as well so was hoping to do these about the same time if budget will allow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick929 Posted September 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 8 hours ago, FLDXT said: I cant stomach cutting the floor out, but that's the only way to do it without taking the cap off. This is how I feel as well. Hate to cut into it, would much rather separate it and know it's not been spliced back together. I'm also without a workshop at the time which will also keep me from having a place to do this myself anytime soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveC Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 Personally I'd do a "cap off", at that point you have everything in front of you (if you have the time and cash) to do a full refit. Good luck, send some pics when you can I would bet a bunch of guys on this forum would be interested in seeing your progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerxV6 Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 What year is the hull? That may also come into play and give some guys on the forum a chance to respond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick929 Posted October 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 On 9/25/2017 at 1:15 PM, RacerxV6 said: What year is the hull? That may also come into play and give some guys on the forum a chance to respond. It is a 1998. I'm also looking at possibly moving from the 115 two stroke to a 140 Suzuki four stroke. Anyone know the difference in the year models (when it was increased) and if anything structural changed to increase the HP rating from 130 to 150? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 I think your dealing with a much bigger job than undoing the screws under the rub rail on this one. Last year I looked at a Pathfinder that had stringer repair done at factory. When I called and talked with them about repair they pulled the “file” on boat. I was told they repaired stringer from outside. I was surprised they didn’t pull the cap to do it so inquired why. I was told something along the lines of it ain’t happening (or atleast practically) due to the way they bond them with the two part foam. I’ve dealt with it putting in for holders, I guess it never occurred to me that’s what it was for. But now that I know, I can tell ya I wouldn’t want to tackle that job if indeed it’s constructed that way. Its tough stuff and expands quite a bit so it’s not like it’s just a bead around the edge. I dont know how you’d get to most of it in fact.... I am not sure the MA is constructed like this, but my other 3 MBC boats are so something I’d look into before I chose to persue that route. Maybe someone has actually pulled the cap off one from this vintage, but I’ve been on here a long time and don’t remember seeing one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLDXT Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 7 hours ago, Derrick929 said: It is a 1998. I'm also looking at possibly moving from the 115 two stroke to a 140 Suzuki four stroke. Anyone know the difference in the year models (when it was increased) and if anything structural changed to increase the HP rating from 130 to 150? I have a df140 on a 99 17MA, not sure on the year when the hp ratings for the boat changed. Reel Loco did a cap off on an 18 LT, didn't look to bad getting it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick929 Posted October 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 I'm curious to know what kind of top speed your seeing with the 140? I'm not focused on just top speed because I rarely run wide open but just curious what the comfortable cruise speed is and the top speed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick929 Posted October 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 5 hours ago, justfish said: I think your dealing with a much bigger job than undoing the screws under the rub rail on this one. Last year I looked at a Pathfinder that had stringer repair done at factory. When I called and talked with them about repair they pulled the “file” on boat. I was told they repaired stringer from outside. I was surprised they didn’t pull the cap to do it so inquired why. I was told something along the lines of it ain’t happening (or atleast practically) due to the way they bond them with the two part foam. I’ve dealt with it putting in for holders, I guess it never occurred to me that’s what it was for. But now that I know, I can tell ya I wouldn’t want to tackle that job if indeed it’s constructed that way. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear so that I at least know what to look for. Sounds like I will be using my flexible camera to take a good look at everything. I can't see foam in many other spots so it may not be horrible. But it would be great to find someone that has already done it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLDXT Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 6 hours ago, Derrick929 said: I'm curious to know what kind of top speed your seeing with the 140? I'm not focused on just top speed because I rarely run wide open but just curious what the comfortable cruise speed is and the top speed? I run a big 4 blade and the older Zukes had lower gear ratios than other outboards and the newer zukes, mines an 04. I cruise at about 30 or so comfortably, wot is between 42 and 45 depending how much fuel. I'm not winning any races bit it's been a great motor, will plane at lower speeds and rims and jumps up in a hurry. Plus it's quiet and sips fuel. I'd buy another in a heartbeat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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