whichwaysup Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hey all, I had one of my trim tabs go out on me recently and am trying to trouble shoot it. When I hit the switch, I get nothing at all. the other tab works fine. I was hoping there was just some corrosion at the switch but I ruled that out this weekend. If anyone has a good step by step way to narrow down the cause (in terms a true electrical idiot would understand) it would be much appreciated. Barring that, a few questions: 1) Does each tab have its own fuse, or do they share one? IE, is it possible it could be as simple as a blown fuse? 2) Aside from the switch and the actual motor on the stern (is that what they refer to as the actuator?), are there other components of this system that could be the cause? 3) Is there a 90% rule on these things going down, as in "90% of the time these atop working it is x."? Given my luck, I will of course have the 10% issue, but at least I will know what it wont be. 4) The wiring of these at the switch is. . interesting. I have wites jumping from one TT switch to the other, running through the harness, and of course, nearly impossible to contort myself around to see this. Any simple explanation on which wires I need to check voltage on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulligan Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Not much to them. If it is not the switch then it is either the actuator or wire/connection. A simple way to see what it is. Find your connection in the rear of the boat that goes to the suspect tab. It should be a group of 2 wires in what looks like a black extension cord. You can check the voltage from the switch going to the plug at the rear to make sure you are getting about 12VDC. If you are then get a 12VDC source and go directly to the actuator. This way you are eliminating everything but the actuator. Put one wire on the + one on the - and it should go up or down, switch the leads and it will go the other direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Oh ,joy. So, I have two trim tabs. One is easily accessible through a hatch, the other lives behind a live well. Guess which one isn't working. . . If I ever find Murphy, I am going to shove his law where the sun don't shine, and I dont mean behind my livewell. . . Let's just hope it is the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Mulligan laid it out it's pretty simple and straight forward. You should find the connections in the center of the bilge, maybe by the live well pumps. You shouldn't need to get behind the bait well. Even if you have to replace the actuator everything is done from the outside and fishing the new cable through the hole is very easy, just use a coat hanger or something similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 It is as easy as checking for voltage at the trim tab actuator, and then going from there. To clear things up, the switch also is/has an actuator. The cover is called the actuator cover. The trim tab also as an actuator, which is the more common actuator people refer to. So your question in another thread about what the actuator is, is actually a good question. If you need to replace the Lenco actuator, shop around online. I found a place in Texas that had them for a considerable amount less than anywhere local and most places online. I'm talking $50-$80 each less I saved over $100 on the pair based on what my local Boaters Discount quoted me. Fishing them through is easy. There is usually a Deutsch connecter (if they're original) or even bullet connectors. If they've been replaced, you'll find typical butt connectors. When replacing the actuator, I cut the cable at the actuator and leave the cable outside of the hull; replace the actuator and then leave the new actuator cable free. I tie a thin string to the end of the old cable and and tape it in place with electrical tape...and pull it on through to where I'll be making the connection in the hull/bilge, leaving PLENTY of string outside of the hull. Tie the loose end of the string to the end of the new cable, tape it in place with electrical tape and hit the lead end with WD-40, soap, Vaseline, etc....Guide the bulky end into the hole, then GENTLY pull the string on through. This works really well if you can feed in a few feet from the stern and the gently pull up the slack into the hull. You'll have your new end in the blink of an eye. Make your connection however you see fit and you're in business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted November 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Thanks all! this is great help! One other thought, since I have one working tab/switch, is there any issue with me switching out the plugs in the bilge to test the actuator on the bad tab? That would seem an easy way of determing if the switch or the actuator is the problem (i.e., if the bad tab works using the good switch, I know it is the switch. If the bad tab doesnt work using the good switch, it is probably the tab actuator). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 3 hours ago, whichwaysup said: Thanks all! this is great help! One other thought, since I have one working tab/switch, is there any issue with me switching out the plugs in the bilge to test the actuator on the bad tab? That would seem an easy way of determing if the switch or the actuator is the problem (i.e., if the bad tab works using the good switch, I know it is the switch. If the bad tab doesnt work using the good switch, it is probably the tab actuator). Now you're talkin'! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonV Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Ahhhh.....isolating the trouble!!! As Brad says, "now you're talkin"!! Reversing the switches will give it away in a second. Looks like you are on your way fixing this problem!! Oh yeah, it's a Lenco, buy a spare if you find a good deal!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted November 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 got r done. broken wire at the butt connector in the bilge. 8 year old son helped me fix it amd I have 2 working trim tabs. Hell, I would trade another broken tab to have that experience with my son again. It is good to be a dad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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