mdemott Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 2012, 20ft Bay Boat with 150 hp Motor, SeaStar steering Steering is "lumpy" above 1100 RPM the steering wheel will turn normally about a quarter turn and then provide resistance. When you physically overcome this minor resistance it turns about a another quarter turn and then repeats. When engine is at idle turning is very smooth. Running a 14.2 x 18 RH three blade prop. Drained and refilled the steering system in February 2017. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted December 18, 2017 Report Share Posted December 18, 2017 I would adjust the anode under the cavatation plate to see if it improves the situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROZEN Posted December 18, 2017 Report Share Posted December 18, 2017 32 minutes ago, Bamaskeet said: I would adjust the anode under the cavatation plate to see if it improves the situation. I think he’s referring to the adjustable torque tab above the prop. I’m not an expert, but he’s on to something.....it looks like a rigging/motor position issue more than a fluid/steer system problem. Do you have a jackplate? My 22TE is nearly impossible to steer when the motor is down and speed is high. Your problem seems to worsen with higher speeds/RPMs. As I raise the JP, steering improves to normal. Pretty much the same for all flats boats and I assume one of the major reasons they were invented. IOW...JPs do a lot more than allow shallow water running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted December 18, 2017 Report Share Posted December 18, 2017 if the bump is somewhat repeatable as you turn the wheel I would think the valves in the helm are sticking and requiring more force to turn. I would search around for people having issues with sticky valves in sea star helms. You can take the torque tab completely off for a test run. if the problem persist no adjustment will improve your situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason p Posted December 18, 2017 Report Share Posted December 18, 2017 I don't think its the trim tab (torque tab, anode, whatever you wanna call it) on the cavitation plate. if it was, the steering would get progressively harder as your speed increased due to the increased pressure on the tab, I don't think it would be intermittent as you described either. I would bet its the helm as stated above, the slightest bit of moisture manifests into a pretty sticky mess inside the helm over a period of time. I've had the same thing happen to me. The "valves" referred to above are little shuttle valves on the right and left side of the pump body that are held in place with a tiny spring and check ball behind the shuttle valve. The resistance you are feeling is hydraulic pressure (supplied by you through the wheel) overcoming the junk in the valve causing it to stick, once you let off the slightest bit of pressure, or the pressure in the pump body decreases due to the valve/valves sticking the spring re-seats the valve and you have to overcome the junk again, and so on. I would make sure the system is properly bled first, but you probably gotta rebuild it. Once you get over paying $40 for a couple O-rings and a gasket its pretty painless and straight forward. A dude on the The Hull Truth did a pretty decent article with pictures on the rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdemott Posted December 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 Thanks to all who replied. Pinned it down to valves in the pump. New pump going in tomorrow just in time for the cold snap. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.