Nolezone Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 While searching for possible leak locations on the bottom of my RF18 hull, I removed this SS plate and found these 2 inlets (or are they outlets?). Can someone tell me what their purpose is? I think they might be part of the tunnel or pocket hull design but I know very little about the concept as this is my first flats boat. They look like they could stand to be resealed...any suggestions on what to use? And after I remove the old sealant from the stainless steel plate, what shall I seal it back down with? Both seem to be “in the water” 100% of the time. Also, what is this opening just aft of my plug? Does it also have to do something with the tunnel hull design? Someone mentioned something about the need for water to be redirected to the prop in shallow water...is that this thing’s primary purpose? thanks all, here are pix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 Stainless Steel Plate is your "Cheese Grater." The little area where it is located, with the two intake lines, is called the sea chest. This is what feeds your live well pumps. It is designed that way in order to continue to draw water while on plane. The plate/grater is designed to keep large debris out. The other outlet by the plug is probably your live well drain. You should have in intake line and an output line. This is typically where you find the output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolezone Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 Thanks Rubble for the succinct explanation...I’m a “cheese grater expert” now! If I scrape off and redo the sealing on both the live well intakes and cheese grater backing, what would you use? I have some 4000 Marine sealant now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 3M 4200 is a great product for that type of work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 ^^^^^ What JEM said... You could use 5200 but that is a tough adhesive to deal with if you ever need to remove. The 4200 has less adhesive properties. It is most commonly a sealant. Good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 14 hours ago, rubble said: ^^^^^ What JEM said... You could use 5200 but that is a tough adhesive to deal with if you ever need to remove. The 4200 has less adhesive properties. It is most commonly a sealant. Good stuff. 4200, stay away from 5200 for job like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FMB MEGALOPS Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 5 minutes ago, fin-addict said: 4200, stay away from 5200 for job like this. Great advice. I always tell people to think of 5200 for things you don't want to ever have to remove and 4200 for things you may have to remove due to maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 What is the screw in the second picture in the pocket near live well drain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolezone Posted April 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 Good question...I think it is a thru-bolt to the stainless steel right angle brace in the bilge (there are 2) to attach motors, pumps, reservoirs, etc. to. I haven’t completely figured it all out yet as the boat is new to me. This all started because I’m getting a lot of H2O in the bilge and I’m trying to eliminate everything else before I call MBG. I suspect water is getting in directly thru the bilge pump outlet because it’s position on the rear starboard side is too low to the waterline. I have a heavy YAMAHA 150hp (max HP) and I go 210lbs. Then throw in all the weight from the rear starboard hatch where my starting battery and lots of other equipment lives. And of course water from full live wells and bilge water build up. When I walk back to cast or bring in a fish, I push the stern down considerably. This might be a design problem. Thank God the bilge pump is working! There is no float switch which I need to add ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLDXT Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 I'd jerk that gardboard plug out too and reseal while ur at, looks like ur missing some caulk around the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolezone Posted May 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 FLDXT, I thought the same thing and I'm going to reseal it tomorrow. Would 4200 be the best thing to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplec Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 link to owners manual with details on the sea chest http://www.mbcboats.com/omanuals/18NR.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter J. King Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 It could also be your deck drain brass sleeves if you have a lot of weight on one side or the other. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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