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When dealing with these chem's everyone should wear their PPE's. Personal Protective Equipment.

It’s a MUST unless you want to end up with health issues and you still may end up with health issues when using these toxic chemicals year after year, day in and day out.


The deck had been fused so I wasn't going to be able to remove it from the hull short of butchery.

Had to start thinking outside of the box.

This is what I ended up with, before and after.


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Of course, to make any sense of this rebuild I have to start with before pics.

After extensive examination I came to the conclusion the deck had been permanently fused to the hull from the factory with resin and gl*** so I had to methodically start dissecting the boat.

After de-rigging this is what was uncovered.



The lower walk around deck was cut out and all the injected foam had to be removed.



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Stringers all gl***ed in with epoxy resins, matt gl***, biaxial gl*** and roven woven gl***.

The hull was re-gl***ed as well.

And by the way, DO NOT USE razor knives to cut gl*** matting.

Go buy a good set of heavy duty scissors for cutting gl*** matting.

It may save you a trip to the ER.




The Lower Deck

MDF board was sealed w/ multiple coats of polyurethane clear to provide smooth surfaces.


Molds were fabricated for stitch plates which were gl***ed in underneath the portion of the lower deck which had to be cut out.


As you can see, the gl***ed stitch plate is clamped down to the table.

The reason for this is that it has not fully cured out and will want to start curling during the remaining curing process.

Once cured, the edges were trimmed off with an air saw and ground smooth.


Stitch plates were placed into position,

appropriate hole sizes were drilled.

The holes on top were drilled larger allowing the screws to pull the stitch plates upward and snug them to the bottom of the existing deck while the new gl*** and resin cures.

Make sure you wipe clean any resin which squeezes out onto the exposed section of the stitch plates as this area is where the remaining section of the lower deck will be installed and gl***ed in.

The expanding foam was poured in and trimmed off after the stitch plates were gl***ed in.



Can't find the pic but the entire lower deck was completely re-gl***ed.



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Lower Deck all gl***ed in and textured / Gel coated.


When I opened this puppy up all the screws which were holding the fuel tank down had dislodged and were rolling around in the fuel tank compartment.

So, I took 3/16" aluminum plating, and made 2 anchor plates.

The plates while attached to the tank was set in place and epoxied down to the tank support plate.

Then the tank was removed and the plates themselves were completely gl***ed in.

Additional holes were drilled and the plates were bolted to the fibergl*** fuel tank support plate underneath.

A small amount of expanding foam was poured in the center outer sides of the tank.

All fuel lines were replaced as well.



I used 4200 when installing the tank cover.

All adhesives will yellow over time.

With that being said, the ideal adhesive to use is 4000 UV as it will stay white longer.


I am one for installing backing plates anywhere I can.

The inside of the hull where the tow eyelet is inserted was ground down and another 3/16" backing plate was gl*** in w/ epoxy.




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Then the fun really started.

Time to re-gelcoat the hull.

After the entire hull was sanded thoroughly w/ 220 sand paper I quickly went back over it w/ 180 sand paper to add some extra anchor profile for the new gel coat.

Then the hull was completely wiped down w/ acetone.

6 HEAVY coats were sprayed and shot in 3 stages.

A 2.2 tip was used in the spray gun.

Gray was sprayed on the first day.

On the second day the lower white section on the sides and the first tier of the underside were sprayed.

On the third day all new gel coat was masked off and up went the trailer and hull.

On the forth day the other 2 lower sections of the hull and complete under side were sprayed last.





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Console Rebuild

there was 107 woodpecker holes in this thing so I just re-gl***ed the entire thing and started over with a blank pretty much.





The interior was ground down and prepped.


Gl*** Matt was cut


2 layers of gl*** and resin applied.


Sanded some more and a final 2 more layers applied.

[A helm backing plate was fabricated and gl***ed in as well.



Once all the gl*** work was completed a temporary spray booth was erected.


The console was completely re-gel coated.




After wet sanding and polishing.



I templated the interior of the console for starboard panels.




Then the wiring project started.

100% complete with the exception of plugging in the lights and accessories to switches after installing the console.


Got bored so I figured I would make some new rocket launcher tubes.

The long 1 is for my Frabill collapsible landing net.

Cut the PVC to desired length, heat bottle up until very hot, place PVC tubing on top of bottle, Heat PVC while slowly rotating.

Press PVC down on bottle to flare the end.

Don't get your heat gun too close and don't over heat or you will burn the material.


After laying out what and where, a guide channel was cut into the tubing.


A jig was set up and the reel holder channel was bored out on the drill press.


Mounting holes were drilled and project completed.


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The bilge compartment was ground down and re-gl***ed.

The 2 square foam and gl*** blocks were removed and replaced with 1/2" solid gl*** mounting blocks for the bilge pump.






Bronze 3/4" threaded thru hull fittings were used to re-plumb the bilge area.

When using threaded thru hull fittings a flanged adapter plate is required.

Thru hull fittings have a NPS straight pipe thread, not tapered.

Standard NPT threading is tapered.

Never, jamb these 2 different types of threading together as if your boat ever sinks due to this issue you will not be covered.

Note: Do not buy Whitecap SS threaded thru hull fittings.

They are threaded w/ a very coarse thread of 11-5 TPI.

Every adapter plate I have came across is threaded w/ 14 TPI NPS standard straight thread.

The adapter plates require a base plate which is then gl***ed in or 5200 can be used as well.

So, I made a couple of forms and this is what I ended up with.












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One of my other projects with this rebuild is LED Light Tubes.

The lights are sign grade IP67 waterproof lights with a life span of 100,000 hr.'s.

Each module has 3 High Output LED's and each module can be replaced if burnt out.

They were attached to lexan strips, support inserts were fabricated and inserted into extruded acrylic tubing..

The end caps were then sealed with Weld-on #16 acrylic cement.

These lights will be installed under the gunnels and poling platform.

The pics which are showing illumination are 1 set of LED's only, not multiple set.









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Just when you think everything is totally complete and you double check,,,,

You realize, short of 2 tan gauge wires, 2 main feed wires and a couple of zip ties, the wiring is 99% complete, in the console atleast.

Hey Skip and Ray, tell the boys in your rigging dept. to take notes. :content:


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did that engine hoist handle the engine mounting? My neighbor just brought one home that looks identical. He is pulling a 350 chevy from his elcamino and offered to raise my motor with it. Wondering if it will slide under the poling platform or if I will need to take the platform deck off

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did that engine hoist handle the engine mounting?

Wondering if it will slide under the poling platform or if I will need to take the platform deck off

Handled the weight with ease.

It's a 2 ton hoist from Harbor Freight.

No sense in purchasing an expensive one as I only needed it for engine removal and replacement.

To properly lift your OB you will need a lifting eye as well.

In the center of your flywheel cover there should be a rubber plug.

Remove it and screw the lift eyelet into the end of your crank shaft.

No need to crank it tight, just make sure it is completely screwed in.


As for your poling platform,

mine has to be removed to remove / lower / raise my OB.

And, since we're on the subject of motor installations,

Make sure your mounting bolts are installed correctly.

Yes, there is a correct way and a incorrect way to install mounting bolts.

Of course, this is without a jack plate.

Top 2 bolts are to be installed from inside the bilge area pointing outward, nuts on outside.

Bottom 2 bolts are to be installed pointing into the bilge area, nuts on inside.

This equalizes the weight and stress on your transom.

Factory recommends using 3M 5200 on all motor mount bolts.

You only want to seal the areas around your bolts to prevent water from possibly getting in.

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good info

now ya got me thinking about how the bolts are set up right now...LOL....

I got a Yamee..(non BLACK MOTOR...lol)

If I remember right, I have an eye for lifting that comes stock on the yamee. Its on the back side just behind the fly wheel.

no jack plate

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Did you use anything to shine up the black bracket that holds the rod tubes? Everything looks great. Ive been thinking i want to replace the rod holders on mine with aluminum or stainless.

No, just scrubbed the tube holders down with wax stripper and degreaser.

Called around a couple of days ago for insurance and it seems as just about every company I have contacted wants a survey and appraisal,

another $300 not anticipated.

Can't blame them as I only do Agreed Hull Value.

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