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Battery and disconnect question


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I've never owned a boat with dual crank and house battery before and was wondering which batteries I should have.  I know the cranking battery should be AGM starting battery and the trolling motor batteries will be AGM deep cycle.  I'm not sure if the "house" battery should be starting/dual purpose/deep cycle because I don't know with the switch situation what draws off of that battery and if it is in use during cranking.  I will be using the stereo, live wells, and 15 inch MFD with the motor off for hours at a time.  Will the house battery be running those items?  Will the house battery charge from the 4 bank charger or the motor?  If it drops often because of this use it might need to be a deep cycle but I've heard deep cycles can damage engine charging systems? Help!   2019 2600 and Verado 350.

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I would think the house battery should be at least a dual purpose battery. I have two dual purpose agm’s for starting and house. I have done upgrades to my system as it pertains to switches and charging. First was to change the battery switch away from the old 1/2 or all type switch. I installed a blue sea switch with ACR switch. Now the battery switch is off or on. The starting and house battery are separate but both charge from the motor. The ACR is a relay that shuts the starting battery out when voltage falls and will not open until it senses charging voltage coming from the motor and will charge the house battery back up.

my trolling motor batteries are charged only by a onboard charger plugged to 110 while at the dock. This charger is also hooked to the starting and house battery’s to keep them topped off while not in use. 

 That was a long read I know it took me a while to figure it all out. Hope that helped and I’m sure others have ideas too. 

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That's good to know, I'll look into that.  I've been doing some research and the live well pumps draw 5 amps each and the MFD draws 5 amps.  I'm not sure about the stereo.  I read the owners manual for the boat online and it looks like you can have the switch set to battery 1 or 2 or 1 & 2 so there are good options there.  I think the thing to do is when you stop running switch from battery 1 to 2 and if it runs down you can switch back to get started.  That's a lot of drain so I don't think a battery would last long like that.  It seems like I read somewhere that the Boatronics guy in Jax had a system that would convert the three trolling motors over to 12 volt on a switch for radio, live wells, electronics etc.  I'll check into that. 

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