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Transom flex 2000 2200v


Offshorespaceship

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So I just repowered with a 200sho. Only been on the water a couple days.

 

we stood on the old Vmax bouncing and noticed a minimal amount of flexing.

 

today when I got into a headsea chop I noticed some moderate transom flexing. Much more than I have ever seen before. I noticed it when I saw the ends of the livewell hatches moving back and forth, then looked up and saw some forward and back movement at the cowling... ahhh!

what is an acceptable amount of flex for these boats and where do I go from here?

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Ok guys upon further inspection I can’t really see the transom itself flexing. There is some cracks at both the hatches and that is the area where it flexes. I had assumed these were just old stress crack repairs before but now I’m wondering.

 

i uploaded some videos to YouTube showing the damage. I weigh 230 and am bouncing on here pretty good to make it flex this much.

The 2nd video shows the damaged area better.

how bad is this?

 

 

TIA

 

 

 

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man doing that with the motor jacked all the way up is causing the maxium force. It also draws the eye to the movement of the jackplate. I would think with the motor down it might not have as much flex as you are seeing. I do not think your new shiny motor is going to fall off i would just watch it over time if it were me.

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23 minutes ago, HoneyB said:

man doing that with the motor jacked all the way up is causing the maxium force. It also draws the eye to the movement of the jackplate. I would think with the motor down it might not have as much flex as you are seeing. I do not think your new shiny motor is going to fall off i would just watch it over time if it were me.

Thanks for the input. Did you watch the 2nd video showing the crack?

 

i noticed even more flexing than these videos when I was in that choppy head sea

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Ok I think I identified the problem and it’s obviously been there a while. On the inside of this crack in the second video there is an old ridiculous looking fiberglass mat patch that doesn’t even connect on 2 sides. The gel coat topside repair must’ve stayed together til I took a bad wake yesterday combined with that heavy chop head sea today and finally cracked again. There is also a vertical crack where this span connects to the transom.

 

these pieces seem essential to supporting the higher torque engines but I think the transom itself looks to be in great shape.

 

heres 2 pics of the inside patch and the hairline crack on the other end.

B6EE7227-C6E0-46AF-B0A2-A993C10961E4.jpeg

C018193F-F3B2-4EA7-BB78-AB5EB8DE123A.jpeg

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When I fished fresh, I had a 85-ish ranger 370 that I was going to trade in 2000-ish.  The folks at Green Boat and Motor literally jumped on the outboard trimmed up, and there was no/0 flex.  That was a wood transom.  I would be concerned.  I would guess the outboard is worth more than the boat, so be very cautious running it.

On 3/9/2019 at 4:13 PM, Offshorespaceship said:

So I just repowered with a 200sho. Only been on the water a couple days.

 

we stood on the old Vmax bouncing and noticed a minimal amount of flexing.

 

today when I got into a headsea chop I noticed some moderate transom flexing. Much more than I have ever seen before. I noticed it when I saw the ends of the livewell hatches moving back and forth, then looked up and saw some forward and back movement at the cowling... ahhh!

what is an acceptable amount of flex for these boats and where do I go from here?

When I fished fresh, I had a 85-ish ranger 370 that I was going to trade in 2000-ish.  The folks at Green Boat and Motor literally jumped on the outboard trimmed up, and there was no/0 flex.  That was a wood transom.  I would be concerned.  I would guess the outboard is worth more than the boat, so be very cautious running it.

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On 3/9/2019 at 4:13 PM, Offshorespaceship said:

So I just repowered with a 200sho. Only been on the water a couple days.

 

we stood on the old Vmax bouncing and noticed a minimal amount of flexing.

 

today when I got into a headsea chop I noticed some moderate transom flexing. Much more than I have ever seen before. I noticed it when I saw the ends of the livewell hatches moving back and forth, then looked up and saw some forward and back movement at the cowling... ahhh!

what is an acceptable amount of flex for these boats and where do I go from here?

If you are located near the factory in Ft Pierce, it's worth a drive to have someone look at it...

 

You have a 19 year old hull....so, depending on how much money you want to put into it, will determine your next steps.

Most likely will have to cut off the rear cap and have it repaired outside in......NO idea on the cost - but, figure at least $5-7K min....

Again, these are a can of worms when opened, but, have a pro or the factory make a proper assessment.

By the time you find another vessel and put on the SHO and re-rig,you are looking at least a good chunk of $$$

 

Sorry to hear about your problems....but, you are smart enough to recognize the issue and not put your family in danger.

dc

 

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Definitely not a healthy situation. 

Probably the best way to reinforce the area is to remove the back cap similiar to what was done on a boat to fix its stringer problem.  Remove old patch  get to good glass rework but add a stainless bracket thru bolted into stringers and transom. 

A short cut may allow a stainless bracket to be placed on each stringer without removing the back of the cap.

If you look on the internet you can find videos of how high end bass boats are made. Those small transoms with hundreds of HP are not constructed like a regular boat. It would be nice to see some of the newer styles of MBG boats with a toned down version of a reinforced transom.

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Took it to a pro fiberglass guy today. He said the transom looks ok. The knees aren’t moving at all and no cracks around there. But the spots on the cap will need to be reglassed from both sides because the laminate is cracked all the way through. It’s a terrible spot to work on and estimated the work to cost over $2k.

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I think even though the crack goes all the way through they grind all the glass away to paper thin Just to lay glass on top of. Working up and out from the crack should give a nice wide strong repair. Then of corse the window dressing of the Gelcoat. 

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6 hours ago, smilemaker said:

The crack in the deck is a symptom not the problem.  Fixing it will do nothing for the problem and it will crack again. The flex/movement in the transom should not be enough to transfer stress to that part of the boat. It is not an integral support of the transom.

 

7 hours ago, smilemaker said:

If all is ok with the knees then  what is that ugly patch for.

If the transom is not connected to the  knees then of course they won't  move

I would get a second  opinion before feeling  good about it

I"m with Smilemaker...again, OP's  call...but, I'd be sure to send this video to MHP (Skip Lyshon) and ask for a 2nd opinion from the factory.  

There is something else going on to cause this type of stress cracks....there will be a tremendous amount of torque with the sho and JP....

enough said on my part....

DC

 

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