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2500 Hybrid Deck Drain Issue


finbully

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I thought it would be better to begin a new thread instead of hijacking fushunter's 2400 TRS deck drain issue thread.

See the included screen capture. It does seem that my rear hatch deck drains are interconnected. If I blow water or air into the starboard drain, the port side drain bubbles up. If I blow air into the starboard drain, it evacuates the water in the port side drain. If I run a hoes into the port side, water will come out of the port side thru hull drain. But water does not drain by itself. When I first discovered the drain not draining, I did retrieve a chunk of what is likely 5200 adhesive that came out of the thru hull fitting. I have not been aggressive with a snake because I do not want to damage the piping.

I am open to suggestions. If I cut an inspection hole in the port compartment, will a subsequently installed inspection hatch be water tight? I need to know this because my port compartment is set up as an additional live well.

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Not sure it would be water tight, you may have to buy one and experiment. The one I installed definitely wouldn’t be watertight but it’s pretty a big hatch, 10x14” if I recall. Maybe a smaller screw-in type round plate would hold water. I will tell you the issue with my stbd. drain line wasn’t a clog or foreign object, the line installed was too long causing an upward bow in the drain hose. I ended up cutting almost six inches off the hose and reconnecting it to the thru-hull fitting in the transom. 

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10 hours ago, jason p said:

Not sure it would be water tight, you may have to buy one and experiment. The one I installed definitely wouldn’t be watertight but it’s pretty a big hatch, 10x14” if I recall. Maybe a smaller screw-in type round plate would hold water. I will tell you the issue with my stbd. drain line wasn’t a clog or foreign object, the line installed was too long causing an upward bow in the drain hose. I ended up cutting almost six inches off the hose and reconnecting it to the thru-hull fitting in the transom. 

Wow what a mess to have to cut holes in a new boat when a simple 5 minute test would spot this recurrent flaw at the factory. Not real happy with MBG on this issue after spending over $100K of money I worked very hard for! Hope Skip is correcting this issue but it is not good QC for boats already delivered. It would be good if someone from MBG chimes in with a solution or even recommendations to troubleshoot.

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Need to look around on-line for a flexible snake (not the solid wire type for pulling wire). Those hatch drains are well above the water line and no valves like the floor drains, so they should drain easily if not clogged with particulate matter. Should be able to snake from both ends.

You can buy a bore scope (pretty cheap) and take a look to see what and where the restriction is. Let us know what you find.

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39 minutes ago, SCFD rtrd. said:

Need to look around on-line for a flexible snake (not the solid wire type for pulling wire). Those hatch drains are well above the water line and no valves like the floor drains, so they should drain easily if not clogged with particulate matter. Should be able to snake from both ends.

You can buy a bore scope (pretty cheap) and take a look to see what and where the restriction is. Let us know what you find.

I'll try the flexible type since what I have is for pulling wire. I'll also see about renting a borescope. Thanks.

Update just ordered a borescope from that A place, be here tomorrow. Had no idea they are so inexpensive now > $20!

Edited by finbully
update
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7 minutes ago, slyshon said:

They are connected, sounds like maybe a clog issue.  I will go and review one this afternoon and report back.  I would not cut an inspection plate!  On my 2500 the port side drain is a bit slower than the starboard but it does drain.  

Skip

Thanks Skip, I did get a chunk of 5200 out of it, but still no joy. I'll see what I see when the borescope gets here.

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4 hours ago, finbully said:

Wow what a mess to have to cut holes in a new boat when a simple 5 minute test would spot this recurrent flaw at the factory. Not real happy with MBG on this issue after spending over $100K of money I worked very hard for! Hope Skip is correcting this issue but it is not good QC for boats already delivered. It would be good if someone from MBG chimes in with a solution or even recommendations to troubleshoot.

Trust me it wasn't something I wanted to do but once i realized it wasn't clogged and the hose was routed incorrectly or was too long there was no other way to resolve the problem. It's not like you can access either end of the hose from the bilge. I can't anyway. Mine wouldn't drain at all and would hold water until it overflowed the gutter and ended up in the compartment, so I figured what's it gonna hurt? 

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5 hours ago, slyshon said:

They are connected, sounds like maybe a clog issue.  I will go and review one this afternoon and report back.  I would not cut an inspection plate!  On my 2500 the port side drain is a bit slower than the starboard but it does drain.  

Skip

Will you take some pictures so I can see the routing before the deck is mated to the hull?

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Not sure how others are but my stbd drain isn’t connected to any other drain and goes directly to the the stbd. thru hull fitting on the transom. The port hatch lid drain and the Livewell lid drain are connected and exit through the port thru hull fitting. I may be loosing my mind but I’m pretty sure the 2500 I crawled all over at Caribee Marine didn’t have a liner under the stbd side hatch, it was just open to the bilge. 

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got a chance to work on my deck drain issue. Spoiler alert - I have it draining as it should.

I bought a $20 borescope that works with my phone. Pretty slick and inexpensive aid. I did not find any drain hoses kinked or installed going uphill. I traced the clogged issue to a gob of 5200 adhesive blocking the water's gravity flow. This sort of thing typically happens when material is globbed on to the female part of a connection instead of a proper application to the male fitting. Same goes true for any threaded couplings. All that happens when any sort of sealant is applied to the female end is the material is pushed into the pipe, whereas when applied to the male piece, it is pushed over the length of the male and female pieces creating the desired seal. Seems that some people think volume makes up for improper joining. This is pipefitting 101 stuff. Could be a learning for boat riggers just entering the field, who knows.

 

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