Happy Lappy Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 Hey guys, I'm starting my research into repowering my 92 Redfisher. It currently has a 92 120 Evinrude on it which has been a solid motor, no jack plate, and no trim tabs. Runs 43 with two guys and a half a tank of gas. I'm willing to install tabs and a JP if recommended or needed. What are your thoughts is the best motor for this boat ? New or used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrownBear Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 Dunno a Lappy from a Labrador, but we have the Yami 115 Vmax SHO and 4 blade prop on our newer Redfisher 18. It matches your performance #'s with ease. Trim tabs are handy now and then to adjust out porpoising but not mandatory. Jack plate is only used when I don't read skinny water well, but really handy for that. In terms of boat performance I could probably live without either. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted July 28, 2019 Report Share Posted July 28, 2019 Not many choices other than a 115 from all the manufacturers unless you go 140 in a Suzuki, anything bigger and your gonna have some serious stern squat. Evinrude made a 135 HP but it was a detuned 150 which is a v-6 motor. They also offered a v-4 in 130 but stopped making them for some reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drummer Posted July 28, 2019 Report Share Posted July 28, 2019 Find a used Yamaha 115 or 130 2-stroke. It's an outstanding powerplant for that boat. Light and powerful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drummer Posted July 28, 2019 Report Share Posted July 28, 2019 Oh yes, I would forego the jackplate and install trim tabs with that money. Lenco can help you with the tabs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted July 29, 2019 Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 I would install hydraulic steering and trim tabs (Bennett electrics or Lenco) and keep the OMC until it died (You probably cant kill it). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Lappy Posted July 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 In the same week the VRO fuel pump and the primer solenoid started leaking fuel. So I'm working on that now during a perfect flood tide week here in northeast Florida. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted July 30, 2019 Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 If it is a crossflow motor you would be better off going with a block mounted fuel pump and eliminate the VRO and just mix your gas & oil. To repair one of those is $15 VS $400 for a new VRO. I also believe they can be mounted on a loop charged motor, just need to clarify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Lappy Posted July 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 The original owner converted the VRO and premixed the oil and gas. The VRO finally crapped out last week and that's what I'm working on now. Switching to the double fuel pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted July 30, 2019 Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 2 minutes ago, Happy Lappy said: The original owner converted the VRO and premixed the oil and gas. The VRO finally crapped out last week and that's what I'm working on now. Switching to the double fuel pump You will be happy with the double fuel pump. Much heartier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted July 30, 2019 Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 Then there Happy Lappy, disregard my post. You are going the right route. I mounted mine right to the block, just under the VRO is a plug and that port pulses off of engine vacuum. I also only ran one pump for the v-4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 I'd keep running it till it blows. For now add trim tabs, no need for a jackplate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatfoot Posted January 3, 2020 Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 Ran 2S Y130 TIL it blew. Repowered w vf115 SHO. Same weight. Same top end. 30% better on fuel. Better acceleration. Tops at 44-45 mph w 4 blade 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Lappy Posted March 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 Ok guys, I need your help with this motor. Between college football, NFL football, coaching two baseball teams, one flag football team, and attending volleyball games and swim meets I'm starting to have a little time to continue to mess with this boat. Here's the latest with this motor over the last four weekends. Weekend #1 Put new gauges in the boat. Ran it in the driveway. cranked up just fine, revved it up in neutral without any problems even at high rpm's. Saw that it didn't have much fuel so I dumped some Seafoam in the tank and let it run for close to 45 minutes with the thought of using all the old gas. Next day I put in 10 gallons of fresh non-ethonal and put it in the water. Ran it at the dock for about 20 minutes, smoked for about 10 minutes (seafoam). idled out to the end of the no wake sign (1/2 mile) gave it some gas to get on plane and it died. after that I couldn't get it started back up. Next day in the drive it started right back up. Ran it at high rpm's in neutral and also in gear without any problems. Put the boat back in storage. Weekend #2 Ran it in the driveway. cranked up just fine, ran it at high rpm's in neutral and in gear without any problems. Took it to the water. Ran it at the dock for about 20 minutes idled out to the end of the no wake sign (1/2 mile) gave it some gas to get on plane and it died. after that I couldn't get it started back up. Same as the previous weekend. Put the boat back in storage. Weekend #3 Purchased a carb kit, removed the carbs, cleaned them, and did the reinstall. They actually looked pretty good. After I did the carbs motor started right up, and ran fine in the driveway until I put it in reverse. Once i did that it ran for a few minutes then died and couldn't get it started back up. Put the *** thing back in storage. Weekend #4 Installed new plugs, new primer bulb, new inline fuel filter. Started in the driveway just fine, ran fine when in gear both forward and reverse. However when i would try to increase the throttle while it was in gear it would sputter and every so often a small back fire at the higher RPMs. issue seems to be at high rpm's under a load. Things I've done Replaced cracked bypassed VRO pump with dual fuel pump rebuilt carbs new inline fuel filter new primer bulb installed water fuel separator last summer (might need to change filter) new plugs new ignition switch new kill switch new plugs compression is 135 give or take a few Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limitless Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Some time ago, I had an engine that behaved just like yours - ran fine until put in gear and increased throttle. After "fixing" several things that I thought might be the problem, I finally had it checked out and was told by the mechanic that it was the "staters" whatever those are. The shop installed new ones and it worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Lot of those had stater issues back in the day. I would look into the new Zukes. But run this till it’s doa. When my Ocean Pro VRO died I did pre mix. Not worth new VRO. Add the tabs. 😀⚓️Fin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 When you advance the throttle, engine off and throttle pulled out to advance make sure the linkage for the timing base is advancing as well and linkage is attached. You can see it up under the starboard side of the flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Lappy Posted March 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 20200307_112418.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Lappy Posted March 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 I first rev it up in neutral and then in gear. that's when it starts to sputter. I turn the engine off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Could be your high speed jets. Did you do a COMPLETE rebuild or just clean them up. When you put the cleaner in it breaks a lot of stuff loose, it could be a pick up is clogged from debris, use the primer bulb with the hose off the engine and pump ii and it should move a high volume of fuel coming out. Seafoam is also alcohol based and too much could eat rubber up so your bulb , the diagram in the pump(s) could have broken down, even the hose. It sounds like a fuel side problem. Also looks like your not pumping enough water, you should have a solid stream from the tattle tale coming out of the pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Lappy Posted March 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 12 minutes ago, MuddyBottomBluz said: Could be your high speed jets. Did you do a COMPLETE rebuild or just clean them up. When you put the cleaner in it breaks a lot of stuff loose, it could be a pick up is clogged from debris, use the primer bulb with the hose off the engine and pump ii and it should move a high volume of fuel coming out. Seafoam is also alcohol based and too much could eat rubber up so your bulb , the diagram in the pump(s) could have broken down, even the hose. It sounds like a fuel side problem. Also looks like your not pumping enough water, you should have a solid stream from the tattle tale coming out of the pan. I plan on replacing the impeller within a week or two. The primer bulb was just installed right before the video. One thing I didn't do is replace my filter on the water/fuel separator. Do you suggest I replace the fuel lines also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 You did have ethanol fuel in the boat and the older lines are not made for it and the rubber liner in the hose kinda comes off like paint from paint stripper. The lines are cheap, start at the tank to ensure the pick up is clear and no corrosion in the pick up fitting that may be causing air to be pulled in, and yes the filter is a must when putting in new lines. All this needs to be done anyway and is cheap considering it is a boat! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulligan Posted March 11, 2020 Report Share Posted March 11, 2020 12 hours ago, MuddyBottomBluz said: You did have ethanol fuel in the boat and the older lines are not made for it and the rubber liner in the hose kinda comes off like paint from paint stripper. The lines are cheap, start at the tank to ensure the pick up is clear and no corrosion in the pick up fitting that may be causing air to be pulled in, and yes the filter is a must when putting in new lines. All this needs to be done anyway and is cheap considering it is a boat! To eliminate the tank and all associated lines get yourself a gas can and hook it up right off the motor. This will tell you if it is a motor issue or fuel supply to the motor. I had an issue like yours on a 97 Hewes I had. It turned out to be the pickup tube inside the tank that had a restriction causing it to fall flat on its face under load. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PiratesRun Posted March 14, 2020 Report Share Posted March 14, 2020 I chased problems on my 1997 Johnson thinking fuel, carbs, any and every thing. In the end I bought a new power pack from CDI Electronics. Problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernWake Posted March 14, 2020 Report Share Posted March 14, 2020 On 3/11/2020 at 5:03 AM, mulligan said: To eliminate the tank and all associated lines get yourself a gas can and hook it up right off the motor. This will tell you if it is a motor issue or fuel supply to the motor. I had an issue like yours on a 97 Hewes I had. It turned out to be the pickup tube inside the tank that had a restriction causing it to fall flat on its face under load. I would try this first as it eliminates a chunk of variables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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