rubble Posted September 29, 2019 Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 I read here where someone recommended a block to add to a battery post to clean up direct connections. Could not find it in the search function. Anyone one or remember what it was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smooth move Posted September 29, 2019 Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 i ran a short cable to a buss bar and came off it to the equipment. i still left the motor cables on the battery though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craSSh Posted September 29, 2019 Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 I'm pretty sure you're referring to the Terminal Tamer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted September 29, 2019 Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 Yes Cpt. Dewalt, Dino installed one in his boat. http://www.boatsteer.com/battery.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted September 29, 2019 Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 I got to wondering, how many circuits are you running off the positive side of battery? I only have the leads to the battery switch and the constant hot to the bilge pump(s). What are you guys running that needs to be hot at all times? All other loads come of the common terminal of the battery switch and gets shut off when the switch does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted September 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 Terminal Tamer it is. Thanks craSSh and Muddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted September 29, 2019 Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 49 minutes ago, rubble said: Terminal Tamer it is. Thanks craSSh and Muddy. yep, I used it....works well... dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted September 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 42 minutes ago, Wanaflatsfish said: yep, I used it....works well... dc Mini or Standard Terminals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted September 30, 2019 Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 MIni....but, if I had to do it again, I would go standard.... A few $$ difference, more room. dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted September 30, 2019 Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 On 9/29/2019 at 10:49 AM, MuddyBottomBluz said: I got to wondering, how many circuits are you running off the positive side of battery? I only have the leads to the battery switch and the constant hot to the bilge pump(s). What are you guys running that needs to be hot at all times? All other loads come of the common terminal of the battery switch and gets shut off when the switch does. I was wondering the same thing. My positive side is just like yours. Main large hot off battery switch and a constant float switch. I wire every boat the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 8 hours ago, Lap it Up said: I was wondering the same thing. My positive side is just like yours. Main large hot off battery switch and a constant float switch. I wire every boat the same. I ran my Power Poles and bubbler system off it's own switch....simple, on off blue seas..I create a simple fuse panel of 6, 2 for the two power poles and two for bubblers....I found the PP's were sensitive to voltage drop and I though by not having them run off the main bus, they would not have as much drop as my main fuse panel is in the console and I'd have to run back and under the chase....this way, everything is in the same compartment....house battery, on-off for one bus, two power poles, two bubblers. DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 8 hours ago, Wanaflatsfish said: I ran my Power Poles and bubbler system off it's own switch....simple, on off blue seas..I create a simple fuse panel of 6, 2 for the two power poles and two for bubblers....I found the PP's were sensitive to voltage drop and I though by not having them run off the main bus, they would not have as much drop as my main fuse panel is in the console and I'd have to run back and under the chase....this way, everything is in the same compartment....house battery, on-off for one bus, two power poles, two bubblers. DC Both main panel and sub panel run off the same house / crank battery? I assume you have two house batteries if not the voltage drop at start up would affect either panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smooth move Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 On 9/28/2019 at 10:59 PM, craSSh said: I'm pretty sure you're referring to the Terminal Tamer i didn't use the TT because i wanted a perko switch in the line. i have my jack plate, bilge pump and power pole on that battery. my neighbors boat caught fire in the boathouse because something in the power pole system shorted out. i like the switch to kill all power to everything while it's sitting there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 12 hours ago, Lap it Up said: Both main panel and sub panel run off the same house / crank battery? I assume you have two house batteries if not the voltage drop at start up would affect either panel. No, one main house...the difference is the PP and bubblers are only 24" of wire from the battery. It's a dual purpose series 24 battery. My logic, and it could be flawed, it that rather than run a long wire run from the battery, to the console, and then run it back through the chase, I wouldn't have a voltage drop, what I was referring to was NOT the start up, but, it's more about once it's up and running, it's on it's own circuit. I have pics i'll post another time. dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted October 2, 2019 Report Share Posted October 2, 2019 I understand your thinking Dino, but as stated above I think there should be a disconnect between the load and the battery, not just a fuse. The stories you here about people sitting on the PP remote and deploying the power pole while driving, etc. would make me a little nervous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernieNC Posted October 2, 2019 Report Share Posted October 2, 2019 Boat wiring 101. "It’s pretty standard in boat wiring to bypass the main battery switch for one thing:" Bilge Pump. Key Phrase ONE THING. https://newwiremarine.com/how-to/wiring-a-boat/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted October 3, 2019 Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 17 hours ago, MuddyBottomBluz said: I understand your thinking Dino, but as stated above I think there should be a disconnect between the load and the battery, not just a fuse. The stories you here about people sitting on the PP remote and deploying the power pole while driving, etc. would make me a little nervous. There is an off/on switch between the battery and the BUS. I turn off the PP's completely for the reason you stated. If I can find a pic, i'll post dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplec Posted October 3, 2019 Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 On 9/29/2019 at 10:49 AM, MuddyBottomBluz said: I got to wondering, how many circuits are you running off the positive side of battery? I only have the leads to the battery switch and the constant hot to the bilge pump(s). What are you guys running that needs to be hot at all times? All other loads come of the common terminal of the battery switch and gets shut off when the switch does. My Stealth 1 charge on the run system adds a few leads to every battery. I like this buss concept and giving it some thought to clean up my stealth stack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted October 3, 2019 Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 On 10/2/2019 at 7:29 AM, MuddyBottomBluz said: I understand your thinking Dino, but as stated above I think there should be a disconnect between the load and the battery, not just a fuse. The stories you here about people sitting on the PP remote and deploying the power pole while driving, etc. would make me a little nervous. here are the pics.... 1/2/all runs the front of the skiff meaning livewell pump, radio, etc.... I think it was #10 wire to the console main bus..... Rear switch, runs the PP"s and bubblers.... Auto bilge runs direct off the main batter with on/off on the console. Hope this helps... dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted October 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 1 hour ago, triplec said: My Stealth 1 charge on the run system adds a few leads to every battery. I like this buss concept and giving it some thought to clean up my stealth stack. Do you just run the DC charger or are you running the AC as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernieNC Posted October 3, 2019 Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 18 minutes ago, rubble said: Do you just run the DC charger or are you running the AC as well? I run the DC and AC and outside of main buss and bilge the charger cables are the only ones direct to batteries and it is not bad at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted October 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 39 minutes ago, bernieNC said: I run the DC and AC and outside of main buss and bilge the charger cables are the only ones direct to batteries and it is not bad at all. That is basically my setup. I do run some items thru the switch with an inline fuse rather than going to the Fuse Panel. My AC isn't a Stealth but thinking about moving to the Stealth. Love the DC setup. My Dual Pro 3 Bank Pro Series has worked well but the way Danny has me setup, One bank goes to the 36v and the other two to the 12v. That is part of the reason I was going to get the Terminal Tamers but I may just switch charger. Would take up less space and might allow me to add a House to use separately than the Crank for accessories. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted October 4, 2019 Report Share Posted October 4, 2019 17 hours ago, rubble said: That is basically my setup. I do run some items thru the switch with an inline fuse rather than going to the Fuse Panel. My AC isn't a Stealth but thinking about moving to the Stealth. Love the DC setup. My Dual Pro 3 Bank Pro Series has worked well but the way Danny has me setup, One bank goes to the 36v and the other two to the 12v. That is part of the reason I was going to get the Terminal Tamers but I may just switch charger. Would take up less space and might allow me to add a House to use separately than the Crank for accessories. BTW, I do place the charge leads "ON THE BATTERY POST" AND NOT THE BATTERY TAMER" to insure i have direct contact for full charging. you can see the red and black leads...they are from my pro-charger set up that runs from under the console. dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplec Posted October 4, 2019 Report Share Posted October 4, 2019 19 hours ago, rubble said: Do you just run the DC charger or are you running the AC as well? Rubble, I run both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted October 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2019 18 minutes ago, triplec said: Rubble, I run both. How does the AC work? Do you run one set of lines (+ & -) to the 36v and then one set to the 12v? Do you have a House battery independent of the Crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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