Keel roller challenge

[SCFD rtrd.]

It really depends on your skill/confidence level and how fat you wallet is. I'd guess for $500 to $600 in parts you could replace the axle, springs, bunks, rollers, winch and strap. Or spend maybe $3,000 (I'm guessing) on a new trailer. Either way you have to remember, your biggest investment here is your boat and it relies on a safe and well maintained trailer.

If you have good carpentry skills, you can handle this repair.

I had trailers with springs all my life. My Ameritrail is the first with torsion axles. I never had to replace a spring. The secret is to dunk the trailer in a fresh water lake after using in salt water.  

[jh141]

4 hours ago, quest4reds said:

Ok, my trailer is in serious need of some attention.  Rear cross member rusted pretty badly, the only 4 bunks are all loosing their carpet, one wheel well cover is loose and rattles while driving down the road, I have no keel roller, the front roller where the bow sits has a crack on the edge, the strap is severely faded, the crank is fairly rusty as well, and I have very rusty leaf springs, rather than the preferred torsion axles.  Before you jump on me for lack of maintenance, this is how I inherited the trailer when I purchased my boat.  Link to pictures below.

All that being said, is it worth all the time, attention and money to repair, or should I look at new trailer all together?  If I'm looking for a new trailer, is there one that would be a good choice that has adequate support, torsion axles, keel roller, etc., already installed?  Boat is 2013 RF 18.  *Edit*  I'll add that I have zero experience working on boat trailers.  I am fairly adept with carpentry, but I don't think that really applies too well here.

Wasn't trying to hijack the post, but it was all about trailers so I figured I'd ask. 

 

 

It is all about what you are comfortable with. A good aluminium frame, good bunk "mounts" and you have something to work with. Axle, bunks, new springs w/ shackles and winch strap is not to expensive. Now if you want to update to torsion axle and the main structure of the trailer is suspect and you are not interested in or can not do the work.........new trailer. Always nice to start new.

[whichwaysup]

3 hours ago, jh141 said:

It is all about what you are comfortable with. A good aluminium frame, good bunk "mounts" and you have something to work with. Axle, bunks, new springs w/ shackles and winch strap is not to expensive. Now if you want to update to torsion axle and the main structure of the trailer is suspect and you are not interested in or can not do the work.........new trailer. Always nice to start new.

this.  Everything on your trailer is replaceable, and generally fairly reasonably.   You can do a lot of replacing parts for the cost of a new trailer!   

[quest4reds]

23 hours ago, SCFD rtrd. said:

I had trailers with springs all my life. My Ameritrail is the first with torsion axles. I never had to replace a spring. The secret is to dunk the trailer in a fresh water lake after using in salt water.  

I always rinse my trailer very well with fresh water each time, especially around the wheels and springs, maybe it's working, or maybe not, I got the trailer with rusty leaf springs.

As for doing the repairs, I restored a 1978 F150, which entailed pulling the leaf springs off, coils, fuel tank, etc., I should be good for swapping parts on a trailer.  The two issues I have are bunk geometry (getting them in the right place so they provide the proper support), and there is a boat sitting on my trailer so how am I going to do all this work?

[SCFD rtrd.]

There is nothing you can do about rusty leaf-springs other than replace them. But, the new springs will look the same way in about a year. The leafs constantly rub and chafe against each other, so no about to lubricant, paint or inhibitor is going to stop the rust.  So If it's just surface rust and the other attaching hardware is good, I'd just leave them alone.  

The rule of thumb regarding bunks is to support the boat directly under the stringers. Look into the bilge, and find the stringers. Then measure from the keel to the center of the stringer in both directions, now get underneath the boat and transfer those measurements to the bottom of the boat. This is where you want your bunks. Some stringers start wider at the transom and get narrower toward the front of the boat. If that is the case, just account for that when you place the bunks forward of the console.  If you just have one set of bunks under the hull now, you could start with adding a second set further to the outside. Put these bunks in place first, then remove the original set, then replace the original as described above (under the stringers).

[quest4reds]

2 hours ago, SCFD rtrd. said:

There is nothing you can do about rusty leaf-springs other than replace them. But, the new springs will look the same way in about a year. The leafs constantly rub and chafe against each other, so no about to lubricant, paint or inhibitor is going to stop the rust.  So If it's just surface rust and the other attaching hardware is good, I'd just leave them alone.  

The rule of thumb regarding bunks is to support the boat directly under the stringers. Look into the bilge, and find the stringers. Then measure from the keel to the center of the stringer in both directions, now get underneath the boat and transfer those measurements to the bottom of the boat. This is where you want your bunks. Some stringers start wider at the transom and get narrower toward the front of the boat. If that is the case, just account for that when you place the bunks forward of the console.  If you just have one set of bunks under the hull now, you could start with adding a second set further to the outside. Put these bunks in place first, then remove the original set, then replace the original as described above (under the stringers).

Thanks.  I feel a whole lot better about this now.  I actually have two sets of bunks already, appears I do have centering bunks 2X4 running from the transom to about 3/4 of the way to the front of the boat and a second set of 2X6 bunks just outside of the stringers which appear to be positioned very well for the hull design.  I also do have a keel roller.

Assuming I won't just be able to remove bunks without taking some of the weight off, what's the best way to go about this?  I don't have a place I can drop the boat in the water and dock it while I replace bunks, and I can't imagine how I can jack the boat up safely.  

[RacerxV6]

X2, ^ Ameritrail Trailer.....

[quest4reds]

11 minutes ago, RacerxV6 said:

X2, ^ Ameritrail Trailer.....

I've heard really good things about them too.   Good overall quality and standard equipment, but able to customize to suit, like using all SS hardware, aluminum wheels, adding steps, etc.  If I go to a new trailer, I am going with Ameritrail.  For now, I think I am going to try replacing bunks, and taking a very good look at leaf springs to determine if they really need replacing or I can get another couple years out of them.  May swap to torsion axles when it's time to replace leaf springs.