Jump to content

… - - - … HELP !!!


fin-addict

Recommended Posts

Never Have I Ever …….. had an electrical problem on my Pathy. I can troubleshoot but not to good in actual repairs due to back issues.

This morning set out to take the girl for a spin, just had the bottom cleaned and wanted to check out rpm/mph as usual. Did so and right on the money as usual but I digress, sorry. 

side note; son and I just changed TM connector in anchor locker and tied in a 60amp breaker in the console next to the 24v TM battery system. Should not have anything to due with this issue.

So, when I got onboard this morning she fired right up and both the speed and rpm gauges read as usual. Turned on the gps, vhf and stereo. NOTHING. Tried all the panel switches again, nada. The bilge pump turned on in auto mode due to heavy rain a day ago but the helm switch nada.

took a look in the console everything looked good, no loose or disconnected wires. Did same in aft battery compartment, all looked good. Now lost. Feel it more than likely main fuse to something that powers the main switch panel and the three electronics that are flush mounted in console.

I Need Help Please ASAP. Wanted to use the girl tomorrow, have guests.  😀👍️Fin
 

UPDATE:

Been doing some research on the net and my owners manual. Cannot find any info as to wiring and fuse that goes from fuse block to switch panel. Really think that’s the issue. If can give guidance please contact 941 380-3660 or respond here. Really do not want to call in for a repair if I can do a simple fix. Thanks all. 👍fin

FYI, three in dash mounted electronics are NOT wired to panel switches, gps, stereo and vhf. Wired directly to fuse block as far as I know.

All three have been up graded over the last several years. Used existing wiring that was already in place. Trying to give as much info as possible so forgive being so wordy. 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE: today at 2:30m just came in from boat, sopping wet. Son just left. Shoot me now please. 
Got everything to start the search for problem. BUT, low and behold turned on the battery switch to ALL and heard my stereo come on. Turned on gps, vhf and tested all switches on panel, everything working and all’s right with the world. ??????, can’t be. Left batteries on and shut everything off and back n 4 times, all ok, done bur don’t know why. Shut battery switch off and back on NOTHING, back to square one. Logic kicked in, battery switch very hard to turn must be that. Son arrived and agreed. Got new switch and installed, ten minutes, easy stuff. Turned switch to ALL, stereo came on and repeated first process, all is good so it thought. Turned new switch OFF and  back to ALL, NADA. Lost at this point.

We know now it’s not a fuse. Checked the pos fuse block and the neg buss above it. Connected volt meter to both main terminals of each an no 12+ v readings. 00.0. ALL wires are zip tied in several places making it hard to tell where their going or coming from. Thee red wires on pos fuse block main terminal because of bundles impossible for ME to figure out. All three appear to be 6-8 gauge.

Due too temp and my back and a health issue my son is recovering from I’m calling it quits and going to have an electric marine mech try to come in. Totally frustrated, tracked down and repaired a fuel issue for a neighbor on his boat and other item and toasted my back and now can’t spend the time to correct my own. Shoot me. Will keep you posted if you like. 🤦‍♂️🥺🤯 fin

Going to throw this into the mix. This just started when the other did. 
Far left AUX on- off - on  switch on switch panel makes a very low ticking sound when the battery switch is turned on and the switch is off. If turning the switch to the upper or lower on position the ticking stops. Turn it to center off the ticking starts again.

This all started after removing broken TM plug in anchor locker and joining wires with a connector for doing so. Also installed a 60 amp reset circuit breaker for TM next to 24v TM battery setup in console. Instead of cutting into + TM wire and install breaker we added additional 20” + battery cable to do the install. One end of new cable went from + battery to breaker stud marked BAT. Then attached the + feed wire from TM to the AUX stud on the breaker. All was good except for a spark when connecting + wire from breaker to + battery terminal. Don’t recall if I explained this in first post. To frustrated to look back but wanted to give all details. 

 

 

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, smooth move said:

i'd check every connection from battery switch to the fuse panel or dash for a corroded or loose connection. these are the things that drive men mad.😖

You got that right. Just added other details to my last post. As you suggested that is the way to go. Would if I could but can’t. Back won’t allow that to happen. 😩. Thanks, fin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LAST POST TILL ISSUE RESOLVED or unless someone asks a question but I’ll be too stupid to answer it.

Just went back on boat for laughs and giggles since 2:30pm. Turned on battery switch and everything is again working ???.

But, when I turned on the bilge switch the stereo cut off and then came back on. Did the same to left AUX switch. Both stereo and vhf cut out and did not come back on. Gps remained on then cut out. Stereo, gps and vhf should not be wired through switch panel. Turned off bat switch and back on, NADA. What am I missing. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Did not touch or move any wires. Prior to this, this morning and yesterday nothing cut out till I turned them off or turned bat switch off. It’s like a breaker is hot and tripping and resets itself when cool. As far as I know this does not happen with fuses, it blows, it’s blown. Should never ever have installed that ……… TM fuse breaker, thought I was doing a good thing by trying to keep things safe. Should have stayed on the wild side. 
Anyone wants a great Pathy with electric ghost issues. 

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could have an inline fuse on your main pos cable

 It is often in the bilge area. 

It is designed to  do just what you  said. 

Find the pos wire in the bilge and follow it. You will come across a small block with  2 studs. This will be the fuse. Replace or eliminate and watch problems  go away. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, smilemaker said:

You could have an inline fuse on your main pos cable

 It is often in the bilge area. 

It is designed to  do just what you  said. 

Find the pos wire in the bilge and follow it. You will come across a small block with  2 studs. This will be the fuse. Replace or eliminate and watch problems  go away. 

Thank you so very much. Did not know there was such a thing so to speak. Guess like when a hair dryer get too hot. Looked it up on the net after you telling me. So are you saying the problem is with the main + cable from bat switch or the fuse block. 😀👍. Will try to find. One each side of my bat switch there is a small black box. Think I was told they are fuses for my Troll n tabs. 

 

4 minutes ago, jh141 said:

LAST POST TILL ISSUE RESOLVED or unless someone asks a question but I’ll be too stupid to answer it.

 

See any of these in the bilge or console???    Self Resetting breaker.

reseting breaker.jpg

No unless their in black plastic housing/covers.

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just went though similar helping a friend with his Cobia. Turned out to be bad breaker. If your boat has any of the push to reset breakers that are my instant likely culprit after hours on his boat jumping and testing. I would not think your troller breaker install caused it but jostling of wires maybe. I think when you get it traced you will end up liking that breaker. But hey...Im the guy who had a MK head catch on fire due to MK leaving the connector loose and were it not for the breaker would have had to dunk the head overboard lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, fin-addict said:

Trip, only have one push to reset. The one just installed for the TM and that works fine. Agree, do not think that install has anything to do with present issue. One was 24v this is 12v. No 12v wires were moved around. 😀👍

Have you checked that breaker that’s on the floor of inside the center console ?  Maybe not all models have this, but my 2009 year model 2200 does.  It’s over to the right side mounted on the floor of mine.  ?? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, fishmanjj said:

Have you checked that breaker that’s on the floor of inside the center console ?  Maybe not all models have this, but my 2009 year model 2200 does.  It’s over to the right side mounted on the floor of mine.  ?? 

No breaker mounted on the floor except for the 24v I just mounted for the TM. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looked just Fine, Now it looks awesome!  Have you found the problem? The two black things under the Perko are fuse holders. I am sure you know that.  See these a lot being used for Jack Plate PowerPoles and after factory Trim Tabs.  If the power comes and goes not likely a fuse but could be a connection to or from the fuse of a power strip.

If I were in your predicament I would call my boy to come wear his back out testing and looking for the culprit. LOL 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...