rubble Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Picked up my Ulterra Riptide yesterday and going to try and install this weekend. At first glance, it wil not fit in existing holes. Much smaller footprint than the old riptide tiller base. What to do with old holes? 5200? Starboard? I also have a quick release to install. Does anyone have pics of their Ulterra installes with the quick release? is the Heading Sensor connected to the Ulterra or just to the 12v system? Could it be installed on the gunnel right behind the TM mount? My bow is really busy with cleat, rod holder, wang anchor mount and a gpsfinder. Dont want to put the puck there cant find much online about install but the demo videos are pretty exciting. Looking fwd to learning how to operate and take advantage if it's capabilities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 The puck just hooks up to 12V. Works on Bluetooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Heading compass "puck" can mount anywhere as long as it's aligned with the keel and isn't crowded with possible magnetic interference like heavy power lines or non-stainless steel. It is a compass after all. I mounted mine temporarily directly in front of the anchor light fixture on top of the console until I decide on a permanent spot. It seems out of the way so far, so I'll probably keep it there. If you are installing a quick release, will those mount holes line up with the existing ones ? If not, could new holes be put in the quick disconnect mount rather than your deck ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryH Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 My puck is on the console. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 The console is the easy option but I have GPS/Finder, vhf antenna, compass and XM antenna on there. I have room for the puck but with all of the other electronic and magnetic devices that close, would that vreate an issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted November 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 Haven't started on the install yet but placed the TM on the bow to look at the layout. One problem... the factory installed cleat is in the way. Has anyone else run into this? im using the quick release base which should get the TM off of the cleat but it will end up covered uo to where It really cannot be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 in the instructions, it needs to overhang.. remember, what's holding it (the trolling motor) is the small puck in center so you could go forward and to the right (based you pick) and still clear the cleat. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 IMG_0555 by Dino Cardelli, on Flickr pick of the install.... dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 IMG_0565 by Dino Cardelli, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 Curious why you used 5200 or sealant on the puck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigsnook35 Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 I put some 4200 under my puck to help seal the holes that I drilled in the deck to mount it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 1 hour ago, bigsnook35 said: I put some 4200 under my puck to help seal the holes that I drilled in the deck to mount it. Why not ? Ditto to Big's answer dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryH Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 11 hours ago, Wanaflatsfish said: in the instructions, it needs to overhang.. Indeed. It needs to clear the rubrail when deployed. Mine is close, but the bow cleat is fully operational (not so much port side. LoL) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryH Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted November 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 Larry, would it be a good idea to add a ram mount or something up toward the head to better secure the unit to the boat for rough roads/water? We are putting a lot of faith in that 1" starboard (<1/2" at lock) and lock handle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 7 hours ago, rubble said: Larry, would it be a good idea to add a ram mount or something up toward the head to better secure the unit to the boat for rough roads/water? We are putting a lot of faith in that 1" starboard (<1/2" at lock) and lock handle I did the same using a single Kennedy tie down.... IMG_0668 by Dino Cardelli, on Flickr IMG_0665 by Dino Cardelli, on Flickr Hope this helps... dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 4200 makes sense. thought it was 5200 adhesive. was curious, because I am having to remove my puck to switch it to a new boat. Wouldn't have wanted it 5200'd on there! Thanks for clarifying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 20 minutes ago, whichwaysup said: 4200 makes sense. thought it was 5200 adhesive. was curious, because I am having to remove my puck to switch it to a new boat. Wouldn't have wanted it 5200'd on there! Thanks for clarifying. Either 4200 or 5200 won't hold to the starboard....it's mainly to fill the holes for the bolts, which aren't going anywhere...well tapped into the aluminum. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryH Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 15 hours ago, rubble said: Larry, would it be a good idea to add a ram mount or something up toward the head to better secure the unit to the boat for rough roads/water? We are putting a lot of faith in that 1" starboard (<1/2" at lock) and lock handle Maybe the cutoff bottom of an old walking cane and some duct tape. (you make a worthy point) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted November 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 The small section of the quick release base that is mounted to the bow will be way forward. If I use the pre drilled holes in the base the front two bolts may actually come out in the exposed area behind the rubrail. Does anyone else have that condition? If the steel plate gors that far up in the bow i can just tap and thread while using a shorter bolt. Otherwise I may have to make some other holes in the base. Also, would it be okay just to tap and thread or do they need to be secured on bottom side with a washer & nut? Don't think i can reach that far up underneath or could get a nut on the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 Rubble - I have a different boat, but for what its worth,this may help you. I didn't feel comfortable trusting my $1400 trolling motor to four screws tapped into an aluminum plate - especially since I know I'd never check them. My MA has an anchor locker that allows for my arm to get under the deck about to my elbow - and that's it. Even the closest bolt was out of reach with a normal wrench. Had the guy before me not already mounted the old trolling motor bracket with washers and nuts, I doubt I would have attempted what I'll describe below, but since I absolutely had to remove the old nuts to swap trolling motors, I didn't have a choice. It was much easier than I would have thought. I ended up taking an arrow (as in bow and arrow) shaft and taping my open ended wrench to it (I actually used the closed ended side of the wrench vs. the open side). I had to tape it extremely tightly to keep everything tight. After that, I used painters tape along the bottom side of the wrench to hold the nut in the wrench, then wrapped the tape around to hold the washer in place on top of the nut. The tape held the washer very tightly and kept the hole of the washer aligned to the hole of the nut. So far, so good. The fun part was the fact that I couldn't see the bolts directly, since I couldn't put my head in the anchor locker. I put a light in the bilge area, then placed a mirror on the bottom of the bilge at an angle that allowed me to see the bolts (in hindsight, I would have taped the mirror in place too!). After that, it was a fairly simple matter of placing the washer/bolt combo on the right bolt, at the right angle, from nearly 3 feet away, upside down, while working in a mirror that reversed everything visually for me. Cake. A walk in the park. Simple as pie. . . . . Actually, it was. What I quickly realized is that the washer allowed me to feel when the hole was aligned to the bolt. Having someone turn the bolt for you as you make slight adjustments is easier, but I was actually able to do it by myself. Once that bolt bites, it couldn't be easier - the bolt will just pop right through the back of the painters tape and about the toughest part is getting the wrench free once everything is tightened down. The entire project took me about an hour, a little contortion, and probably a short visit to a chiropractor. On a positive note, I will breathe easier every time I hit a wake wrong and that trolling motor takes a jarring! Not for the faint of heart, but a lot easier than I would have expected - if you doubt it, you can probably rig up something to try it out before you drill holes in the deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted December 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Got it installed. Ended up putting 6 bolts in. All were threaded and three were secured below with washers and lock nuts. Had one screw up on position. Ecause my tap snapped and had to redrill a few more holes. That sucked but they are covered by the base and are dry with 5200. Does the Ulterra lock itself when stowed or do I need to add a strap? Im going to get a RAM to hold the head unit when running but wasnt sure if the trim and turn motors actually locked the unit down when stowed??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 It locks down when stowed. I don't have any kind of mount or strap for the head. You might try it first before adding a mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 I don't use a mount when running..only when trailering from FLL to Choko...as I can't see the head, I just wanted it to be stable...many times you have some bouncing and I thought it was prudent to hold it.... I have not been anything so nasty to cause me concern when running....but, if you get into the nasties...it could be useful...95% of the time, you'll never need it... dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Isn't the bouncing of the head unit preferable to a ram? Wouldn't the vibrations be more violent if the head is basically attached to the boat?? Unsupported, the shaft will cushion the impact from a sudden jarring. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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