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1999 Maverick 21 Master Angler Rebuild


MA21

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  • 1 month later...

Yes it was ordered through Ezell industries. Just gave them the model number and they had the specs. I think it was $890.00 for a 48 Gallon tank. I was thinking of having a thicker gauge aluminum used to build the tank but decided after research to just stick with the recommended gauge. Ezell said they could have an outside company powder coat but went with epoxy . 

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3 hours ago, DaveVero said:

Yes it was ordered through Ezell industries. Just gave them the model number and they had the specs. I think it was $890.00 for a 48 Gallon tank. I was thinking of having a thicker gauge aluminum used to build the tank but decided after research to just stick with the recommended gauge. Ezell said they could have an outside company powder coat but went with epoxy . 

good price...

dc

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

It’s been busy between trying to glass, grind, storm prep. This has been a very wet winter with more storms and winds than usual. 
 

I have got the bow light holes glassed solid with 8 layers of 1808. I’m going to stick with running the bow lights through my tower box.

 

The original thru-hull transducer was removed and also glassed solid. 

I put 2 layers of fresh glass over the port side recessed trim tab for extra strength and durability.

 

I have the port side stringer fully installed. There’s approximately 3/8”-1/2” gap of putty between the stringer and the hull and between the stringer and the transom. (This was a pretty big lay-up)

 

The old starboard stringer has been removed and I have 1/4 of the grinding done. (Storms are headed for Florida) had to secure the boat once again.

 

Once I finish grinding the rest of the floor I will be able to build to build the starboard stringer and get that installed.

 

If anyone has any questions I would be more than happy to answer them. Thank you for watching and engaging in such a project. I hope this helps other people with their builds.

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Love this thread, glad to see you continuing the effort.   I hope the storms didn't affect you or the project too much!

 

A few thoughts:

1) It looks like you moved the stringers inboard quite a bit from the original location.   The original stringers were box stringers and covered a wider area.  Do you think there is any risk with a single, narrower stringer being further inboard?  Are you considering additional stringers or boxing the stringers you have?  

1B)  Related to that, my transom has heavy, diagonal supports that are integrated into the vertical and horizontal trim tab pockets.   Are you planning any additional support for the transom?  I know those 21's can take a lot of horsepower.

2)  I'm sure you have thought of this, but when I extended the stringers in my 18, I had to cut holes to allow water to get to the bilge from the outsides of the stringers.   

3)  What happened to the seachest?   usually the livewell pumps have a recessed box to draw water through - did you eliminate this or is it just not visible in the pics?

 

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@whichwaysup

 

answer to 1) what you see so far will be mirrored on the other side. There will also be a smaller stringer added to the outside of the stringer you currently see on each side. I will also have bulkheads that run from port to starboard. This will add strength and durability.

 

1B) I also had the same supports. I eliminated them and will be adding a so called “shelf” stringer from trim tab to trim tab. The 21 also has 2 “knees” that go from transom to bottom hull. Those have been eliminated and that’s another reason why the inside stringers go all the way to the transom. Still contemplating making new knees or coming up with a better idea.

 

2) yes, 1” holes will be drilled with and a stainless steel/brass fitting will be installed for water to make it to the bilge system.

 

3) Decided to keep the seachest. Just not able to see it in the pictures. I will run a few layers of glass over it and drill out the holes. This will add durability and strength to that part of the boat. I can take before and after pictures of that.

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Just a thought on the  stringers 

Once you have  them shaped and the deck of the cap fitting without binding why not glass 2 pieces of coosa board about 2 Inches wide down its length to create an I beam to minimize flex or twisting 

As for installing the cap you will have to decide on how much support the deck gets and weather it adheres to the stringer or is allowed to float.

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  • 4 weeks later...

@smilemaker this is a great idea and I have put a ton of thought into this. What I was thinking of doing was putting a 3" wide piece of coosa from stringer to stringer for the deck to sit on. I'm also having a bracket built that will be attached to my stringers and also my tower. This way the entire floor and tower are connected to the stringers. I have a few updates coming later tonight when I can get the photos uploaded.

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Have some updates the next few posts.

 

Cut out and glassed the second stringer. These pictures are the process of getting everything straight and unison to the port stringer from center of hull. I used a string line to help me with this. The string line was tied to the boat and to the stern directly in the center. Each stringer is equal distance a part. Right now both stringers are run wild on the height and will be cut to the correct height during the deck cap installation.

 

 

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Here are a few more pictures of setting the second stringer. It’s hard to get a good picture but the stringer is shimmed and has roughly a 3/8-1/2” gap between bottom stringer and hull. Before glassing it in that gap is filled with putty.

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