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What did you do to your boat today?


HewesYourDaddy

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1 hour ago, HoneyB said:

Take a walkabout and look at the props on those bass boats. You will get an idea of what would be much better application for your boat. You put a hot motor on your boat and you will not see the true potential without a great prop.  I bet a better prop that has more lift will do away with the pourpoiseing and let you get the rpm up quite a bit. Running a flashed SHO on a 22 pathfinder I would agree a 23 three blade should get you in the rpm range. 
 

Definitely going to play around with some different wheels.  Probably could get 6K out of it if I could trim it and take the tabs out.  I'll be on the horn with Ken from Prop Gods Monday morning for sure.   The hole shot and mid range performance was better with this prop, and it didn't blow out when cornering.....but something needs to change!

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27 minutes ago, HoneyB said:

Wish you were in Savannah I have a couple of wheels that could give you some really good data. 

I'm in Savannah every other week for work.  I'll reach out when I'm heading that way.

 

Thanks, Kenny

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On 4/20/2024 at 5:22 PM, Dixie said:

So...Did the break-in today between Jacksonville and Palatka.  Old motor had a 25in prop, ran good but candidly I never ran it wide open so I don't know what it would do.  The motor was out of warranty when I bought it so I treated her nice.  45 mph @ 4500 RPM was fine.  Ken at Prop Gods said I would be better with a 21in 3 blade from Powertech so I pulled the trigger.  Hole shot great, 4300 RPM = 48 mph, but...But I could not run without substatial tab or it would start to porpoise.  If I trimmed the engine up any more than a hair, it started to porpoise.  So having said that, I could only get 5000 RPM trimmed all the way down and with some tab in it.  Frustrating for sure, but overall it was OK.  Put 5.3 hrs on her.  Fun fact...the Bassmaster guys are in Palatka this weekend and they pass you like your'e sitting still :)

Update!  After talking with Ken Reeves @ Propgods, he asked where I was running the jackplate.  I've always ran it all the way down ( which I know now has not been great ), he said run it up some and see what it does.  So...experimented between 2.5" and 3.5".  What a difference!!!!!  Poured the coals on pretty good from the start and it slips for about 2 seconds and then bites and jumps right up.  Wants to porpoise for a few seconds but settles down and flies without any tab.  Got 5200 without trimming up at all and 6000 trimmed up. Admittedly the boat is pretty light right now with 1/4 fuel, no trolling motor, trolling motor batteries, cooler, etc., but easly hit 66mph @ 5600 rpm.  Not sure how much trim is too much, and how high is too high on the plate, but the boat rides totally different with the motor moved up.  The only glitch was when pulling way back to a cruise speed, I had to put some tab in it as it started to porpoise.  I'll keep tinkering, but feel allot better than I did Saturday.  

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Changed the lower unit gear oil and found it milky. The seals at the top of the lower unit are new so I knew it had to be the prop shaft seals. Since I already had the seals I decided to try the drywall screw method to get them out. I used brake cleaner and a soft brush to clean everything first, then Boeshield around the old seals with the motor tilted up and let  sit for about 15 minutes. Then put a drywall screw in on each side until I felt it bite in a turn or so. I used two claw hammers and gently pulled. They couldn’t have come out any easier. It took me maybe 10 minutes to remove both seals. Most important thing is making sure the drywall screws go in at an angle that doesn’t make them go towards the shaft or outer wall the seals fit against.

 

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8 minutes ago, searing said:

Changed the lower unit gear oil and found it milky. The seals at the top of the lower unit are new so I knew it had to be the prop shaft seals. Since I already had the seals I decided to try the drywall screw method to get them out. I used brake cleaner and a soft brush to clean everything first, then Boeshield around the old seals with the motor tilted up and let  sit for about 15 minutes. Then put a drywall screw in on each side until I felt it bite in a turn or so. I used two claw hammers and gently pulled. They couldn’t have come out any easier. It took me maybe 10 minutes to remove both seals. Most important thing is making sure the drywall screws go in at an angle that doesn’t make them go towards the shaft or outer wall the seals fit against.

great post....

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3 hours ago, Fsu11 said:

Any suggestions on how to find the interior color code for my deck? 2001 Hewes Redfisher 18. Wanting to redo the nonskid in the cockpit

I think this is it. You may be able to confirm with Spectrum. Mine is a 2000 16’ but apparently it was used through to 2006. 

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