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What did you do to your boat today?


HewesYourDaddy

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Spring cleaning for the 23 year old Redfisher 18, buffed and waxed inside and out. Also I finally found a set of scupper plugs that fit my drain holes that when I measured were 1.15”. These small kayak scupper plugs fit the RF18 cockpit drain plugs and also the rear livewell drain plug. In the past i’ve tried a lot of options that didn’t work due to the weird size so the link is attached for anyone who needs it. https://a.co/d/4Dam6Zu

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15 hours ago, RacerxV6 said:

very pretty girl!!!!

 

appreciate it! its come along way since I bought it 7 years ago, had it wet sanded and compounded when i bought it and ever since yearly maintenance has kept it in great condition with no oxidation.

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19 hours ago, Fsu11 said:

Spring cleaning for the 23 year old Redfisher 18, buffed and waxed inside and out. Also I finally found a set of scupper plugs that fit my drain holes that when I measured were 1.15”. These small kayak scupper plugs fit the RF18 cockpit drain plugs and also the rear livewell drain plug. In the past i’ve tried a lot of options that didn’t work due to the weird size so the link is attached for anyone who needs it. https://a.co/d/4Dam6Zu

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Your boat is beautiful!

Just wanted to share an easy trick I did for my scupper plugs. I purchased these on Amazon;

Duthyvea 1-1/4 Inch Rubber Plugs Replacement for Boat Drain Plug, Lawn Roller Plug Stainless Steel Snap Handle fit 1-1/8” to 1-1/4” Pipe Tube Bilge Hull Hole Opening https://a.co/d/1dCXU8q 

Then I put them in a lathe and used a strip of 220 sandpaper to make the diameter just small enough to make installing and removing easy yet still seal perfectly. I believe this could be done using a drill to spin for sanding too.

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That's a good idea, I'm going to see how these kayak scupper plugs work and if they don't ill go you're route. I filled the boat with water and the plugs were holding fine so we shall see! And thanks for the compliment she looks pretty good for a 2001.

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FSU - that boat is stunning.   

 

My baby is getting some serious work.   After months of trying to track down the hydraulic leak in my tilt/trim unit, I finally brought it to a guy who does great work on my boat.   While we tried to figure out where the unit was leaking (still couldn't figure it out), we also discovered that nearly every one of my bushings were shot and the motor had a significant amount of play in it.   Added that to the list, along with some gelcoat work on the bow, where the trailer roller did some damage.

Got a call last week and got good news . . . and terrible news.   The good news is that, after removing the engine and the tilt/trim unit, he finally figured out where the unit was leaking - it was at the pump, as we suspected, but not the way we suspected it.   Turns out there are 3 bolts that hold the pump motor to the unit - two are short, one is about 3 inches long.  That long bolt goes through a sleeve before bolting into the actual tilt/trim unit.   That bolt, located closest to the transom, had corroded so badly that he absolutely couldn't get it removed.   The corrosion was so significant that it had actually caused a gap between the pump motor and the unit, allowing the hydraulic fluid to leak out.   

At that point, the only option was to replace the entire unit.   One bolt - an entire replacement.  GRRRrrr.   I rinse that engine - especially the tilt/trim area - religiously after each trip, but this bolt is positioned in a place that apparently wasn't getting the benefit.

Good news is that, after he tracked down a $600 used unit, he decided to just go all in and attack the bolt with everything he had, figuring that it was a total loss anyway.   Lo and behold, the stupid thing finally gave up, and he was able to get the pump off, fix the damage, and I avoided an entirely new unit.   

While that's being done, I'm replacing my trailer bunks and all of the rusted out metal brackets.   Looking forward to having her back home!

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1 hour ago, George Seither said:

Great news! Back on the water again ! Soon!

I hope so!   After 35 years of owning boats, being without one for any length of time is painful!   Luckily the weather and wind have been terrible for the last couple weeks.   Is it Spring yet?

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1 hour ago, whichwaysup said:

I hope so!   After 35 years of owning boats, being without one for any length of time is painful!   Luckily the weather and wind have been terrible for the last couple weeks.   Is it Spring yet?

Good news

Mow someone , other than me will be posting in catch of the day section again ! 🫤

🇺🇸🏴‍☠️

 

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1 minute ago, THE OUTLAW said:

Good news

Mow someone , other than me will be posting in catch of the day section again ! 🫤

🇺🇸🏴‍☠️

 

Yeah - it's been awhile since I felt that tug!    I'll correct that asap - you know what they say - "friends don't let friends catch fish alone"

BTW, outlaw, since we're in the "boat" thread - qq if you don't mind.   My son has an Aluminum boat with a bunch of pin holes - some pretty big (think pencil diameter, maybe even a finger diameter).   He's planning on using JB weld and some window screen to address, then coat the bottom of the boat with Gluvit.   Is there a better way to address the holes for a non-welder?   Every site I see seems to recommend JB weld, but figured I'd check w/ an expert.   Also, the boat has a false floor, so we can't get to both sides of the holes easily.

 

Thoughts?

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5 minutes ago, THE OUTLAW said:

Good news

Mow someone , other than me will be posting in catch of the day section again ! 🫤

🇺🇸🏴‍☠️

 

If I caught fish I’d be glad to post.:) At least now I can see what I didn’t from the new casting platform. 

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25 minutes ago, THE OUTLAW said:

That sounds like it may work .

Heck , I seen a tv commercial where they made a boat out of a screen door .🚪 

If you bring JB WELD in here , we change more .

Nasty stuff .

🇺🇸🏴‍☠️

Second time I've heard that - apparently it's easy on, impossible off.   Are we stupid for not using brazing rods or having someone address with welding?   

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Welding or brazing the smaller holes and maybe putting a small patch over the bigger holes , is the way to go .

We fix them all the time .

The problem is the metal is thin , and you have to be quick or it will warp .

Also , if you weld near the rivits , that can make them leak also .

🇺🇸🏴‍☠️

The Jb Weld does not come off and is toxic when it gets hot .

 

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Those caps are a terrible design and tend to cause water intrusion and bearing issues... Id get rid of them ASAP.  A bit of an investment but replacing the hubs with the vortex is worth the $ just to have screw on / off caps.... guaranteed to not leak and stupid ez to remove for maint or just to check the grease.

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5 hours ago, whichwaysup said:

Second time I've heard that - apparently it's easy on, impossible off.   Are we stupid for not using brazing rods or having someone address with welding?   

Whichwaysup, can they be plugged with a large rivet and some adhesive....?

 

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40 minutes ago, FINCHASER said:

Those caps are a terrible design and tend to cause water intrusion and bearing issues... Id get rid of them ASAP.  A bit of an investment but replacing the hubs with the vortex is worth the $ just to have screw on / off caps.... guaranteed to not leak and stupid ez to remove for maint or just to check the grease.

True Dat, Vortex hubs are the way to go......

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